After COVID put us all on a “time out” in 2020 like petulant children, Costa Rica was the first nation I visited the minute the world began to reopen. For those of you who have visited this Central American nation, you know it does not disappoint when it comes to beauty.
Columbus sailed the ocean blue in 1400 and 92 and took particular delight in “discovering” territories that were already inhabited by indigenous peoples. Costa Rica was no different. Christopher Columbus landed in Costa Rica in 1502 at Isla Uvita. Shortly thereafter, he overcame the indigenous peoples and duly incorporated Costa into the Captaincy General of Guatemala as a province of what was called “New Spain” in 1524. For 300 years, Costa Rica was anything but rich as it remained underdeveloped and impoverished. Today, Costa Rica is recognized as a tropical paradise that has something for everyone. Whether you are a naturalist, live for water sports or just want to loll around on the beach – Costa is your spot.
San Jose
Day 1:
My trip kicked off from the capital and largest city, San Jose. While not a real tourist destination, the city serves mostly as a point of entry for most travelers. Nevertheless, I enjoyed it for a full day then I was off to explore the interior.
La Fortuna
Days 2-3:
After a 2.5 hour drive from San Jose I arrived at the La Fortuna – Arenal area of Costa Rica. Spanish for “The Fortune” – La Fortuna is located in the northern highlands of Costa Rica about 2.5 hours from San Jose International airport. La Fortuna has a plethora of activities (ziplining, whitewater rafting, horseback riding, kayaking, hiking, etc.) and sights and was a great starting point for my adventures. The highlights for me were Arenal volcano, La Fortuna waterfall and Cano Negro riverboat safari – animals, animals and more animals.
I was fortunate enough to stay at a lodge situated at the base of Arenal volcano (literally as close as you could get to it) and provided spectacular views from the front door of my bungalow. Standing at 5,358 feet, this cone-shaped monster has a crater measuring 460 feet in diameter. Geologically, Arenal is considered a young volcano and is estimated to be less than 7,500 years old. It is also known as “Pan de Azúcar”, “Canaste”, “Volcan Costa Rica”, “Volcan Río Frío” or “Guatusos Peak”. In 1968 it erupted unexpectedly, destroying the small town of Tabacón but has been dormant since 2010.
La Fortuna waterfall, a short drive away yet in constant view of the volcano, definitely added to the paradise vibe. La Fortuna or Catarata Fortuna is formed by the old lava flow of the extinct Cerro Chato volcano. The 246 feet high (76 m) waterfall descends into two pools where visitors can swim. To reach the waterfall, you have to navigate your way down 500 steps (and then back up again) but I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Day 4:
I went on a riverboat safari on the Rio Frio in Cano Negro Wildlife Reserve. The Rio Frio is a slow moving river in the Reserve and stretches from the Nicaraguan border into Costa. The Reserve is considered one of the most bio-diverse areas in Costa Rica and, needless to say, the wildlife viewing was great. Here I encountered capuchin and howler monkeys, the Jesus Christ lizard, iguanas and all types of birds. At the end of a glorious stay in Arenal I headed to Monteverde Rainforest.
Monteverde
Day 5:
I visited the Monteverde area of Costa Rica which is located in Puntarenas province. Located in the Cordillera de Tilarán mountain range, National Geographic has called the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve “the jewel in the crown of cloud forest reserves”. Situated at 4,662 ft (1,440 m) above sea level, Monteverde is a lot like the United States’ Pacific Northwest region — evergreen due to the precipitation and moisture-filled clouds which hover over the horizon on an almost daily basis. When I was there it was super windy, rainy and cold, as there was a storm moving up the Caribbean coast of the country, so, I didn’t get to really explore and appreciate the area the way I wanted to but I have a few pictures to show I made an effort.
Fun Fact: Monteverde was founded by Quakers from the United States whose pacifist values led them to defy the American draft before the Korean War. The majority of these settlers hailed from Fairhope, Alabama, and included some non-Quaker pacifists and conscientious objectors. The spokesman of the group was Hubert Mendenhall, a dairyman who had visited Costa Rica in 1949 as part of a farmer’s tour and chose the area for its cool climate, which would facilitate dairy farming. The country’s non-violent, army-free constitution and its friendly inhabitants proved the perfect location for them. Part of the land the Quakers stewarded and farmed was eventually set aside for conservation and became what is today the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve).
Manuel Antonio
Day 6:
I visited Manuel Antonio beach! Sheer bliss.
Days 7- 9:
I visited Manuel Antonio National Park. This is considered the smallest national park in Costa Rica and was established in 1972. While small, it was still beautiful, had numerous hiking trails and afforded quite a few animal sightings and “hearings”. The whole vibe of the Quepos, Puntarenas area around Manuel Antonio reminded me of Miami. The beach and all the eateries and shops lining the strip along the beach. It was a good lead in considering after this I was headed to the real deal rainforest – Corcovado (the one you all have probably seen featured on National Geographic).
Osa Peninsula – Corcovado
Day 10:
Travel Day! When most of us think about a boat landing site, we imagine a pier or a jetty, but here on the Osa Peninsula the surf is too high for the boats to dock and the only way to get in and out of them is by a beach landing.To get to Corcovado one has to either drive approximately two hours then fly in or drive approximately two hours then take a boat. I took the land – water – land route. One thing to note about the water route
Days 11 – 13:
I visited the Osa Peninsula to head to Corcovado National Park. It is the largest park in Costa Rica and is widely considered the crown jewel in the national parks system and biological reserves of the country. National Geographic has called it “the most biologically intense place on Earth in terms of biodiversity”. I have to say it was very interesting getting TO the Osa Peninsula. I had a land transfer to the pier and took a boat to the area. Now, when most of us think about a boat landing site, we envision a pier or a jetty, not so on the Osa Peninsula! Prepare for a beach landing – upon arrival, the captain of the boat simply backed the boat in as far as he could to the shore and the guests hopped out and walked ashore.
Mind you, the water was warm and inviting and just below our knees but you have to mentally get ready for that type of landing, fully clothed AND toting your own luggage. However, rest assured, the well-practiced locals and lodge staff operated with military-like calmness and efficiency to get us all ashore safely and keep us all upright and as dry as possible (at least from the knees up). You may be wondering if the Peninsula was worth all that effort – I can tell you, it definitely was. After Corcovado, it was time to head home.
Alas de Mexico by artist Jorge Marin in Parque Morazan. These wings have traveled thousands of miles and visited dozens of cities on 4 continents prior to arriving at their final home in Costa Rica. There are 9 identical sets of wings in various locations around the world: CDM, Tel Aviv, Berlin, Singapore, LA, Quebec, Nagoya and San Antonio.
“Monumento Los Presentes” – The work personifies the typical inhabitants of the Central Valley, in danger of disappearing due to modernization; Paradoxically, they are represented as firm, immutable, static and in silent rebellion against changes.
The work was developed by the Costa Rican sculptor Fernando Calvo and is located in the gardens of the Banco Central de Costa Rica (BCCR) – Central Bank – building in downtown San Jose.
Orange howler monkey (incorrectly called an albino monkey by many locals). This monkey is an anomaly – he is the only orange one; howlers are normally black.
While his fur may be attractive to humans, it can be a source of isolation in the animal world. Being different can cause an animal to be ostracized. While this one seems to be accepted as part of a troop of howlers, he definitely did not appear happy. He looked pretty sad actually.
Howler Monkey Fun Facts:
- As their name suggests, howler monkeys are very vocal emitting loud, deep, guttural growls and have been deemed the loudest land animals.
- According to the Guinness Book of World Records, their howls can be clearly heard 3 miles away.
- They are able to make such a loud noise as a result of an enlarged basihyal or hyoid bone in their throats.
- Group males generally call at dawn and dusk, as well as interspersed times throughout the day. The function of howling is thought to be to a means of marking their territory, as well as possibly to mate-guarding.
- They range in size from 22 to 36 inches in length, excluding their tails, which can be as long as their bodies. In fact, in some cases the tail has been found to be almost five times the body length. Their tails are “prehensile” – meaning they can use them like an extra hand to grasp or hold objects or for picking fruit and nuts from trees.
- The lifespan is 20 years, and their predator is jaguars.
- Howlers eat mainly top canopy leaves, fruit, buds, flowers, and nuts. They need to be careful not to eat too many leaves of certain species in one sitting, as some contain toxins that can poison them. They are also known to occasionally raid birds’ nests and consume the eggs.
- They are proficient swimmers even though they spend most of their time in the trees.
- They do not like rain, so they howl in protest to the rain while hunched over in the trees.
The common basilisk or Jesus Christ lizard. No, I’m not making that up. That’s really his name.
The lizard got its name from its unique ability to skit across bodies of water to escape predators. Common basilisks can attain speeds of up to 11 km/h on the ground and 8.4 km/h on water. This super speed and light weight help facilitate this. To accomplish this amazing feat, the lizard has long toes on its rear feet along with fringes of skin that unfurl in the water and create little air pockets under the lizard’s feet to give the lizard lift.
Jesus Christ lizard Fun Facts:
- They eat flowers, insects and small vertebrates such as birds, snakes and fish. It also has many predators that include large birds of prey, fish, snakes, and birds.
- They measure between 18-27 inches and their average lifespan is 8-12 years.
- While not venomous, the basilisk’s bite can be very painful.
Leaf-Cutter Ants Fun Facts:
- There are 3 sizes of ants on a leafcutter team: maxima, media and minima.
- Each size of ant has a specific job to do. Maxima ants (the largest) are the explorers that go out and find vegetation.
- The media worker ants use their powerful mandibles to cut pieces off the leaf and drop them to the ground. Other media ants pick up the pieces and transport them to the nest.
- Once underground, the minima workers take over. They chew the leaf fragments and shape them into pellets, which are placed in a mat of fungus, which continues to grow as it feeds on the decaying leaf pellets. The minima ants tend the fungus carefully and keep it healthy. When it’s time to eat, fungus is harvested from an older spot.
This beauty was spotted during my nightwalk in Manuel Antonio Park.
Red-Eyed Tree Frog Fun Facts:
- Red-eyed tree frogs sleep during the day and are active at night.
- They are non-poisonous and rely on camouflage to protect themselves.
- During the day, they remain motionless, tuck their bright feet under their bellies, and shut their eyes. Thus, they appear almost completely green and well hidden among the foliage.
- The large red eyes serve as a defensive adaptation – when it detects an approaching predator, it abruptly opens its eyes and stares at the predator. The sudden appearance of the red eyes may startle the predator, giving the frog a chance to flee.
- Red-eyed treefrogs are insectivores, eating crickets, moths, grasshoppers, flies, and other insects and occasionally smaller frogs.
Capuchin monkey sitting for his portrait. The word “capuchin” derives from a group of friars named the Order of Friars Minor Capuchin, an offshoot from the Franciscans, who wear brown robes with large hoods. When Portuguese explorers reached the Americas in the 15th century, they found small monkeys whose coloring resembled these friars, especially when in their robes with hoods down and named them capuchins.
Capuchin Monkey Fun Facts:
- Capuchin monkeys are clever and easy to train. As a result, they are used to help people who are quadriplegics in many developed countries.
- The capuchin is considered to be the most intelligent New World monkey and is often used in laboratories. The tufted monkey is especially noted for its long-term tool usage; one of the few examples of primate tool use other than by apes and humans.
- They are also popular pets and you may recognize them as “organ grinder” monkeys.
Yellow-throated toucan. This showy bird can be found in pairs or small groups and likes to perches very obviously at the tops of trees. It emits a call that resembles a yelp that carries and sounds like “Díos te dé” (Spanish for “God give you…”). He feeds mainly on fruits, but occasionally on lizards, rodents, smaller birds and insects.
Tent-making bats are also called leaf-nosed bats deriving its name from its curious behavior of constructing tents out of large, fan-shaped leaves. These roosts provide protection from the tropical rains and a single tent roost may house several bats at one time as you see here. Primarily a frugivore (fruit eater), it may supplement its diet with insects, flower parts, pollen, and nectar.
Leaf-nosed or Tent-making bats Fun Facts:
- They are also called American leaf-nosed bats due to a special structure consisting of a leaf-shaped projection extending from a “horseshoe-shaped” base attached to their upper lip.
- These bats send their echolocation calls out their nostrils, and so the “noseleaf” may affect the sounds that they emit.
- Their calls are emitted at a very low frequency (standard bat detectors have trouble picking up their calls) so they are sometimes called “whispering bats”.
The striking scarlet macaw. This bird extends from Mexico to the Peruvian Amazon, Ecuador, Colombia, Bolivia, Venezuela and Brazil. It is the national bird of Honduras. The scarlet macaw can live up to 75 or even 90 years in captivity, although a more typical lifespan is 40 to 50 years. Monogamous birds remaining with one partner throughout their lives, they can often be seen flying over the canopy in pairs. I have actual footage of macaws mating…please see the next clip.
Sloths are mammals that spend most of their lives upside down in the trees of Central and South American rainforests. They are famous for moving slowly, which gives them a low metabolic rate. What does that mean? That means that they do not need to eat a lot of food.
Sloth Fun Facts:
- There are two kinds of sloths Costa Rica; the two-toed and the three-toed sloth. Both species have rather distinct differences between them. While the two-toed sloth is nocturnal and can mainly be spotted at night, the three-toed sloth prefers to be awake during daytime.
- The sloth’s fur works as a self-contained ecological community; algae and mold live in their fur. This is why their fur sometimes has a greenish hue. This not only helps them blend with their environment but provides them with food. They can eat the algae that grows in their own fur. Gross!
- Sloths have flexible necks. Like owls, sloths can turn their head 270 degrees in either direction, allowing them to see almost everything around them.
- Sloths life expectancy is 30 years and 90% of their time is spent upside down. Imagine that!
- Sloths only go to the bathroom once a week! Seriously…have you ever risked your life to go to a bathroom? Once a week, when nature calls, they climb to the ground to urinate and defecate, making them vulnerable to predators.
- Sloth predators include jaguars and large birds.
- Sloths sleep a lot. There are two types of sloths – the two-toed sloths, which are completely nocturnal; and, the three-toad sloths, which are diurnal and nocturnal. Wild sloths sleep close to 10 hours per day.
- Who knew? Sloths can swim and get this – while on the ground, the maximum speed of a sloth is approximately 10 feet per minute. In the water, their speed is just over four times faster at 44 feet per minute. Their long arms are an asset in that area.