Day 11: Mount Hagen
The Paiyakuna Show
This weekend would begin the festivities that we had been anxiously awaiting. We rose early to drive further into the Western Highlands to Paiya village for the Paiyakuna Show. While smaller and more intimate than the Hagen Festival, it was a great precursor to the main event.
We got to see many of the participants preparing for the festivities. We watched as faces were painted, and costumes tweaked prior to reporting to the “arena” for their performance. The “arena” was a large grassy field with thatched arches acting as entryways and a makeshift viewing stand for spectators. Each tribe assembled in a different section of the field to make last minute adjustments to their attire and prepare for their turn to perform.
Now, I have to stop here and warn you, as my readers, many of the women danced topless. If you viewed the photo gallery above you may have noticed this. Their ceremonial dress did not include a covering for their torso. It should be noted that this was not done to be salacious or provocative, and their performance was not sexualized by any of the spectators. This was simply part of their culture and viewed accordingly. Please keep this in mind as you view the remaining posts for this trip.
As we sat in the arena waiting for the show to begin, the first thing I noticed was that each tribe was markedly different. The monochromatic Skeleton Men were in direct contrast to the striking reds and yellows of the Huli Wigmen. Entering the grounds was like entering another world. Hypnotic chanting, rhythmic drumbeats and the synchronized movements of the performers had us mesmerized.
The Huli
The Huli is the largest ethnic group in the Highlands with a population reportedly somewhere between 250,000 to 300,000 people. This tribe is renowned for the Huli Wigmen who hail from the Hela province. The Wigmen have an extraordinary presence that exudes strength and masculinity. This presence stems from the combination of their physical stature, as well as the fact that they are almost always found with an axe or spear at their disposal.
They are easily recognizable by their unique and colorful face and body paint made of red ochre and bright yellow clay. The clay is called ambua and is considered sacred in their culture. They are also renowned for their ornate headdresses made of actual hair.
The Enga
Enga Province is one of the seven provinces of the Highlands region of Papua New Guinea. While all Highlanders live in the mountains, Engans are referred to as “mountain people” because of the extremely rugged terrain they inhabit.
One tribe, the Suli Muli dons giant hats made of their own hair, moss and plant fibers similar to those worn by the Huli Wigmen from Hela. Like the Wigmen, they also have an impressive presence in any space they occupy. When performing they form spear lines or circles and jump up and down in unison to the beat of the kundu drums while they chant.
One of the most interesting aspects of Suli Muli culture is their use of black face paint. It is believed that the black paint is a symbol of strength and identity, and it is worn by both men and women. The paint is made from a mixture of charcoal, ash, and oil, and it is applied to the face in intricate patterns that vary from person to person.
The People of Jiwaka Province
The Melpa Tribe
The Kunai Tribe
The Skeleton Men of Chimbu
The Chimbu / Simbu live in the state of the same name in the Highlands of Papua New Guinea. There are an estimated 180,000 people in the province.
The Skeleton Men are always a crowd favorite as they take centerstage. While they do not chant or sway rhythmically like the other tribes, they capture their audiences with their silent, zombie-like movements and their signature black and white body paint.
Their skeleton based adornment originated as a way to scare other warriors, as death and ghosts provoke fear across the spectrum of the tribes of Papua New Guinea. The aim was to make their enemies believe they were supernatural and held other worldly powers.
Check out their “performance” in the video below.
After each group performed, we had time for photo ops and explanations of the various articles that made up their attire. I will be posting several “Tribe Profiles” in the future where I share more about their individual tribal cultures and the significance of their ceremonial dress.
With the close of the Paiyakuna show, we were now fully primed for the main event.
Up next: the Hagen Festival…
Make sure you don’t miss any posts from Soul-O-Travels.com by subscribing here:
