Peru had been on my travel list for quite some time. Visiting Machu Picchu, viewing at least one of the images from the Nazca lines, hiking through the Peruvian Amazon and taking a cooking class was at the top of my “to-do” list. In June of 2024, my dreams became reality. Using Lima as a portal, I arrived early on a Friday morning, dropped my luggage off and began exploring.
Day 1:
While I didn’t know what to expect from Lima, I ultimately found the city to be underwhelming. It had the typical colonial style architecture common to other Latin American nations but somehow lacked the charm. I thought, “surely, there must be more to Lima than this”. It turns out there was but I had to work to find it. I finally found it in the art positioned and displayed around the city. One sculpture in the historic district, in particular, piqued my interest.
Tapada Limena of Lima
A statue depicting una tapada limeña (translated means “covered one”) graced the sidewalk of one street. At first glance, I believed it was depicting a woman of the Muslim faith. Considering the statue was in the historic district in the absence of mosques or any other outward Muslim influences, I was understandably confused. My tour guide explained this was how the women of Lima used to dress in the 16th century.
During the first years of the Viceroyalty of Peru, women were severely restricted and expected to be modest. In 1560, the women of Lima decided too own their modesty and use it to their advantage. They covered their entire bodies, save one eye, in silk.
The characteristic attire of the tapada consisted of a dress made from a skirt and a mantle. A long, loose silk skirt called a saya was secured at the waist with a belt. A cloak, also silk, was tied at the waist then led up the back to cover the head and face. To retain their anonymity, only one eye was left uncovered. The cloak was usually made from simple fabric ensuring the tapadas would not stand out in public, further protecting the wearer’s identity.
At a time when women faced many limitations, this mode of dress allowed them to meet people or flow into spaces that would have otherwise been off limits. It’s no wonder it endured until well into the 19th century.
Day 2:
Barranco
Numerous travel guides I had come across raved about the Barranco section of Lima. With my curiosity piqued, I set off to explore the streets of this famed neighborhood. Considered the “Soho of Lima”, Barranco has a total Bohemian vibe. The area serves as home to Peru’s top artists , musicians, designers, and photographers and it shows. Everywhere you turn, there are vibrant murals and artistic fluorishes showcasing the talents of the resident street artists. The murals ranged from the whimsical to the realistic and almost all were rendered in bright, bold colors.
As I walked along admiring the architecture and art, I could not escape the work of one particular artist, Jade Rivera. Mistakenly believing Jade was a woman, I later found out she is a he, but he is an amazing self-taught artist. His pieces are thought-provoking with many highlighting the power of faith in dreams and the emotions associated with reconnecting with nature.
Day 3:
Paracas, Ballestas, Chincha
Approximately four hours’ drive to the south of Lima, lies the small port town of Paracas. Also known as “El Chaco”, Paracas is a desert peninsula that serves as the departure point for the Ballestas Islands. Often called the “Peruvian Galapagos”, sea lions, Humboldt penguins, pelicans and other protected species call the islands home.
The geoglyph – The Candelabra
Visitors who sail from Paracas to the Ballestas Islands, also get an excellent view of an enormous geoglyph known as The Candelabra. The Candelabra follows the same style as the famous Nazca lines found on the surface of the Pampa Colorada (“Colored Plain” or “Red Plain”) in southern Peru. Most of the Lines were constructed more than 2,000 years ago by the Nazca people, however, some predate this period and are considered the work of earlier Paracas cultures.
The Nazca Lines
Viewed from the air, the Nazca lines consist of a monkey, killer whale, bird resembling a condor, a hummingbird, a pelican, a spider and various flowers, trees, plants and geometric shapes. The figures are virtually indecipherable from ground level and locals believe that one can only understand their meaning by walking their sacred paths.
Since their discovery in the 1920s, there have been numerous theories about their origins but their significance remains shrouded in mystery. American historian, Paul Kosok, observed the lines from an airplane in 1941 and hypothesized they were drawn for astronomical purposes. María Reiche, a German translator who spent years studying the site, concluded that it was a huge astronomical calendar and that some of the animal sketches were modeled after groupings of stars in the night sky.
After our boat ride and wildlife sightings, we were whisked away to the farms of Ica where we visited the famous Pisco Nietto Winery. We sampled different flavors of the national drink, pisco. Peruvian pisco, unlike Chilean pisco, is a brandy made from the wine of eight specific varieties of grape grown in five coastal valley regions of Peru.
The Oasis of Huacachina
Next up was the Oasis of Huacachina. Huacachina is a village built around a small oasis surrounded by sand dunes in southwestern Peru. Sitting approximately five kilometers from the city of Ica, Huacachina has a population of around 100 people. yet hosts thousands of tourists each year. The name Huacachina hails from the Quechua language and is a derivative of the word “wakachina”, which means guard or conceal. It is believed this word is an abbreviated version of “wakachina qucha”, which means “hidden lagoon”.
Huacachina is home to the biggest sand dunes on the continent.
We caught our first glimpses of the village as we stood atop the sand dunes. To reach the top we walked up a massive “staircase” fashioned out of sand bags. Needless to say, the weak of heart and those who are afraid of heights need not apply. To give you some idea of how high in the air we were, these dunes can reach heights of up to 1,600 feet and resemble small mountains. We had a nice adventure tour speeding across the terrain in dune buggies. There was also the option to slide down these massive dunes on a sandboard. I opted for the easy route and hitched a ride in the dune buggy.
After our buggy rides, we visited the oasis then it was time to return to Lima.
Day 4:
Cusco
I hopped an early morning internal flight to the city of Cusco. Cusco sits in southeastern Peru near the Sacred Valley of the Andes mountain range. Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire from the 13th century until the Spanish conquest in the 16th century. In 1983, Cusco was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city hosts over 2 million visitors a year in its role as a portal to numerous Incan ruins, with the most famous being Machu Picchu.
That elevation, though!
At an elevation of around 11,200 feet, this city takes your breath away, literally. Within minutes of disembarking from the plane, I had a headache and my heart began to race. My Apple watch noticed the spike in my heartrate and tried to convince me I was having a heart attack and should seek medical attention. Thanks, Apple! It’s funny now but when you feel like you’re moving in slow motion and panting just walking down the street, not so much.
Seriously though, elevation sickness is real and not to be played with. On average it takes two to three days for your body to acclimate. You have no choice but to take it easy and move more slowly. The slightest exertion makes your heart feel as though it is about to burst through your chest.
One thing locals recommend is the consumption of copious amounts of coca tea. Made from the leaves of the same plant cocaine is derived from, coca tea was a lifesaver. I began to consume coca tea as soon as I arrived at my hotel. In fact, they had tureens of it stationed in the lobby for consumption night and day. With a taste akin to green tea, coca leaves were sold in every form and fashion imaginable – leaves, powders, candies.
I drank more tea while in Cusco than I have consumed the entire year at home. Despite feeling pretty awful, I ventured out to explore the strip and artisan markets. Cusco is a very walkable, colorful city and has an amazing food scene. In fact, my first scheduled activity was a cooking lesson slated for the same evening.
Peruvian cooking class
I found the Mario Batata Culinary Experience on TripAdvisor and decided I had to take a cooking class while in Peru. I joined a group of seven other guests and we had an absolute blast. Five of the seven hailed from New Jersey while the other two were New Yorkers – imagine being so far from home yet right at home with travelers from the same region in the US. Quite naturally, we made it interesting and our lesson quickly became a New York versus New Jersey showdown – but all in fun. Our instructor, a lovely lady named Cristina, took us on a culinary journey that started with teaching us about the different potatoes, chiles, corn and pisco that Peru is known for.
Fun Fact: There are 4,000 varieties of native potatoes grown in Peru, 17 varieties of passionfruit and more than 300 types of chiles. Ayeeeeeee!
We kicked off the evening by sampling baked tamales. Unfortunately, they were not on the menu so we didn’t learn how to make those. I did manage to get the recipe for them though. We then went into the cooking lab and prepared our very own ceviche from fish that had been caught that morning.
Pisco
After devouring the first course, we shifted to the bar to learn about the history of pisco.
While Peru and Chile are both known for producing pisco, they are made in different manners and have quite different tastes. These facts didn’t stop the two nations from battling it out in court over who owned bragging rights for having created the drink. It was a hard fought battle but ultimately Peru won and can now proudly say their nation created the drink.
I wasn’t too sure how wise it would be to consume alcohol while battling altitude sickness. It turns out it wasn’t too bad because we were just sampling the different types and learning to mix cocktails. Thankfully, it wasn’t a full blown happy hour.
Next up would be our main dish, lomo saltado featuring alpaca. I had never had alpaca before but was pleasantly surprised to find it tasted somewhat like filet mignon. It was tender and flavorful and of the same texture. I believe we all thoroughly enjoyed learning how to prepare this dish, especially the part where we got to create a big flame using the same pisco we were just sampling. Bidding my new friends adieu, I made my way back to my hotel to rest up for the next day. It was going to be a doozy.
Day 5:
Machu Picchu
I was picked up at 5:00 AM and transported to Ollantaytambo, an archaeological town 45 miles to the northwest of Cusco. During the Inca Empire, Ollantaytambo served as the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti. Thankfully, for my lungs and heart, the town sits at approximately 9,160 feet above sea level so it was a bit easier to breathe here than Cusco proper. Once in Ollantaytambo, I boarded PeruRail, a train bound for Machu Picchu Pueblo Station, also known as Aguas Calientes. During the approximately 1.5 hour ride, I had marvelous views of the snow capped Andes and the Veronica glacier from the panoramic view windows.
Upon arrival at Aguas Calientes, my guide, Dario was waiting for me. Next, was a 30 minute bus ride to reach the citadel of Machu Picchu.
The Lost City of the Incas
Often referred to as the “Lost City of the Incas”, Machu Picchu is the most familiar icon of the Inca Empire. The site is on a narrow saddle between two mountain peaks, Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu.
In the Quechua language, Machu means “old” and Picchu means “peak”. Thus, the name of the site is sometimes translated as “old mountain”.
Richard L. Burger, professor of anthropology at Yale University, believed Machu had been erected in the 1450s. However, in 2021 he used radiocarbon dating and discovered the citadel may have been occupied from approximately 1420 to 1530 AD. Construction appears to have spanned the reign of two great Inca rulers, Pachacutec Inca Yupanqui (1438–1471) and Túpac Inca Yupanqui (1472–1493).
A consensus among archaeologists is that Pachacutec ordered the construction of the royal estate for his use as a retreat, possibly after a successful military campaign. Although Machu Picchu is considered to be a “royal” estate, it was not passed down the line of succession. It was used for 80 years then abandoned, possibly because of Spanish conquests in other parts of the Inca Empire. It is also quite possible that most of Machu’s inhabitants died from smallpox introduced by travelers before the Spanish conquistadors arrived.
Life in the royal estate – Machu Picchu
During its use as an estate, it is estimated that approximately 750 people lived there, with most serving as support staff. Further examination of the skeletal remains, revealed most of the residents were immigrants from diverse backgrounds. This was determined when it was noted they lacked the chemical and osteological markers they would have if they lived there their entire lives.
Animals are also suspected to have been relocated to Machu Picchu. Most animal bones found were from llamas and alpacas which live at higher altitudes than Machu. It is likely these animals were brought in for meat consumption and their pelts. Guinea pigs were also found at the site in special tomb caves. Their location suggests that they may have been used for funerary rituals and meat. Six dogs were also recovered from the site. Based on their placements among human remains, it is believed they served as companions to the dead.
Much of the farming done at Machu Picchu was done on hundreds of “andenes” (man-made terraces). The terraces were a work of genius engineering, built to promote soil drainage and fertility and protect the landscape from erosion and landslides.
Rediscovered by Peruvian Augustin Lizarraga
The citadel lay hidden in plain view for centuries until the early twentieth century. American historian and explorer, Hiram Bingham, is widely credited with “rediscovering” the site in 1911. However, he arrived nine years too late. Bingham had traveled the region looking for the lost capital of the Neo-Inca state. Villager, Melchor Arteaga, led Bingham to the site. When Bingham arrived, he found the name of Peruvian explorer and farmer, Augustin Lizarraga, written on one of the walls of the Temple of the Three Windows, along with the date of 1902. Initially, Bingham acknowledged Lizarraga as the true discoverer but with the passing of time he downplayed Lizarraga’s role until he conveniently “forgot” he arrived nine years after him.
Huayna Picchu
Huayna Picchu is the mountain in the background towering over the ruins of Machu. Rising to 8,835 feet above sea level, Huayna is approximately 850 feet higher than Machu. The Incas built a trail or staircase up the side of Huayna which led to temples and terraces constructed on the top.
The “Stairs of Death“
The most popular and difficult section of stairs have been ominously nicknamed “The Stairs of Death”. While not quite as scary as it sounds, the stone steps built into the mountain are shallow, uneven and steep and definitely challenging to navigate. There are no handrails just steel cables to provide some support in certain sections. For the most part, sections of young trees and shrubbery are the only things separating you from a beautiful view and a fabulous drop to the base.
“The Stairway of Death” – The raggedy, uneven 600 year old steps at the base of Huayna Picchu.
Adding to the stress of the climb is the fact that you use the same staircase to ascend and descend. Understandably, this can get a bit tricky when people want to pass you. Luckily, the number of daily visitors is restricted to 400 and this number is split between two entrance windows, which limits the traffic on the stairs.
Why did I think this would be a good idea?
I was in the second window so I had to wait until 10:00 AM to start my ascent. Depending on your level of fitness and pace, it takes approximately an hour to reach the summit. Halfway up the mountain, with my lungs screaming for oxygen and my head throbbing from the altitude, I truly began to question my sanity. Why exactly had I thought this would be a good idea? Is it too late to turn back? Would today be the day I met Jesus face-to-face? Clearly, your mind does crazy things when it’s oxygen deprived.
In just over an hour, I made it to the top. The views were truly phenomenal and the climb was worth it. While I had no regrets after seeing the view, I did have some concerns about how I was going to get back down. The trip down was much easier (thank God) and then it was off to the second circuit of Machu.
Machu Picchu – second circuit
Sometimes when you visit a place you’ve seen online or in magazines, it falls far short of your expectations. Machu Picchu was different, it totally delivered. The iconic view from the top of the second circuit was breathtaking and easily surpassed all the images I had stored in my memory. The weather was perfect – clear and sunny with no cloud cover and the majesty of the mountains formed the perfect backdrop.
The day ended with me returning to Cusco and treating myself to a well-deserved dinner at Ucha Peruvian Steakhouse. After surviving Huayna Picchu, I deserved every bite of my mixed grill dinner. The next day would be more trekking. Clearly, I’m a glutton for punishment.
Day 6:
Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo & Pisac
The Sacred Valley of the Incas, also known as the Urubamba Valley, is a beautiful region steeped in history. Nestled in the Andean highlands of Peru, the valley is situated near the ancient Inca capital of Cusco and the world-renowned archaeological site of Machu Picchu.
The valley is called “sacred” for two reasons. Firstly, it is dotted with sites which were of significant importance to the Incan Empire. Secondly, geographically, it is also aligned with celestial events that were particularly meaningful to the ancient civilization.
Following the course of the Urubamba River (also called the Vilcanota River) the valley stretches from Pisac to Ollantaytambo. The Chanapata civilization first utilized this area beginning around 800 BCE drawn by the rich soil irrigated by the river. They were followed by the Qotacalla who occupied the region from 500 to approximately 900 CE. The Killke were the final occupants from 900 until the Incan Empire achieved administrative control over the region from 1000 to 1420 CE.
The Inca developed sophisticated agricultural techniques, such as terracing and irrigation to cultivate the land and maximize food production.
Pachacuti and Tupac Yupanqui
In the 15th century, two Incan leaders, Pachacuti Yupanqui and Tupac Yupanqui built an enormous kingdom known as the Tahuantinsuyo Empire. Extending a mind-blowing 2,400 miles from north to south and covering a road network of 24,800 miles, the empire ran across the borders of six nations. North to south, it extended from the center of Chile to the southern portion of Colombia. It occupied the entirety of Peru, most of Ecuador, and parts of Argentina and Bolivia. The capital, Cusco, had an extraordinary amount of financial and agricultural wealth and was protected by fortresses.
The early Incas were initially attracted to the Sacred Valley because of its proximity to the capital and its lower elevation. The lower elevation resulted in the warmer temperatures needed to cultivate their prestige crop, maize. Maize was integral to the culture as it was used to make chicha. Chicha is a fermented drink the Incas consumed in large quantities at their numerous ceremonial feasts and religious festivals.
The Incas ruled this area until the Spanish took control of the majority of the empire in 1533. Conquistador Francisco Pizarro defeated the last Incan emperor, Atahualpa, in that year and captured the capital, Cusco.
Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo, known as “the living Inca city” houses both the most original and best preserved Inca and pre-Inca ruins in Peru. During the Inca Empire, Ollantaytambo served as the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti. At the time of the Spanish conquest, it served as a stronghold for the leader of the Inca resistance, Manco Inca Yupanqui.
Key features of Ollantaytambo are the extensive agricultural terraces and storehouses. The terraces or “andenes” start at the bottom of the valleys and climb up the surrounding hills. These steps permitted farming on otherwise unusable terrain. They also allowed the Incas to take advantage of the different ecological zones created by variations in altitude on each terrace. Several storehouses remain intact at the site. These houses or “qullqas” were constructed from fieldstones set on the hills surrounding the valley. Their location at high altitudes, where more wind and lower temperatures were prevalent, protected their contents from decay. To further enhance this effect, the qullqas feature strategically placed windows, which served as ventilation systems.
Maras Salt Mines
The Sacred Valley is also home to the famous Maras Salt Mines, known locally as Salineras de Maras. The layout of these saltpans is quite impressive. Over 3,500 pure white ponds, owned by 600 local families, make up the picturesque site.
Very little is known about these pre-Inca salt ponds. Evidence seems to suggest that the mines were built between 500 to 1100 AD by the Wari civilization. When the Inca gained control of the territory, they recognized an opportunity and began overseeing production. However, the ownership and administration of the ponds were given to different families that lived in the nearby community. The ponds have been passed down through the generations and the same families still maintain full control of them.
Production of the salt
To this day, the production of the salt remains exactly as it was 500 years ago. Each pond measures approximately 14 square feet in size and is connected to an underground network of canals that continuously supplies it with saltwater. Once all the ponds are full, the canals are closed to allow the sun time to evaporate the water. Once the water has evaporated, the salt crystals that are left behind are extracted by local family members using ancestral techniques. No modern machinery is used here, just shovels and wooden rakes. After the salt is harvested, the streams are reopened, the ponds refill with saltwater and the process is repeated.
Salt was an important mineral for the Inca empire. All the salt that was extracted was consumed – it was used for human consumption, livestock, food preservation and was even used in the mummification process. Today, local people offer every imaginable product made from this same salt – even chocolate!
Moray Archaeological Complex
Maras is also home to the Moray Archaeological Complex. The complex features circular agricultural terraces, or “muyus” excavated from the landscape creating different microclimates. There are 14 terraces and the largest depression is 98 feet deep. The depth and design of each terrace, along with its orientation with respect to the wind and sun, creates a temperature difference of as much as 27º F between the top and the bottom levels. The wide temperature differences create microclimates enabling multiple crops to be grown in one location. The Incans were extremely advanced in their agricultural manipulation of the land.
Pisac
The Inca complex at Pisac is located along a mountain ridge in the valley. The complex consists of a large Incan complex of agricultural terraces, residences, guard posts, watchtowers and a ceremonial/religious center. Despite the excellent condition of many of the structures, little is known about the site’s actual purpose. The consensus among many scholars is that Emperor Pachacuti constructed Pisac as a multi-purpose residence, citadel, observatory and religious site. In this role it would support his panaca (family and descendants) and provide a secluded retreat from Cusco. This site could also support ritual and religious ceremonies.
Day 7:
Rainbow Mountain
Day seven presented another full day of activities as I headed to Rainbow Mountain. I was the first guest to be picked up at the insane hour of 4:00 AM. By 5:00 AM, we had collected all the guests for the tour and were headed for breakfast first and then the mountains.
Located in the Peruvian Andes just three hours away from the historical center of Cusco, Rainbow Mountain is the second most popular attraction in the region.
As you could probably guess, the mountain is famed for the multi-colored beauty of the sediment. Fourteen different minerals give it its distinct turquoise, lavender, gold and sienna hues. The mountain was discovered between 2012 and 2015 as the snow that was covering it melted exposing its colorful layers to the world. This is one instance to be thankful for global warming.
The Origins of the Colors
Each color is characteristic of specific minerals. The subtle pinks come from red clay, mud, and sand. The radiant white originates from calcium carbonate, such as that found in quartzite, sandstone, and marl. The rich red tones are composed of clays and shale. The vibrant greens and blues come from a combination of phyllite and ferromagnesium-rich clay. The earthy browns are derived from rocks and magnesium, and the bright yellow represents layers of iron sulfide.
The Mountain of Many Names
The mountain has many names and, not surprisingly, all of them involve the word for “color”. It is called “Vinicunca” or colored mountain in Quechua, Peru’s native tongue. In Spanish, it has two main names: “Montaña de Siete Colores” (mountain of seven colors) and “Montaña Arcoíris” (rainbow mountain).
The mountains rise a staggering 17,100 feet above sea level – even higher than the 11,100 feet of the lung busting capital, Cusco. At this elevation, weather conditions can change rapidly in the space of an hour. Morning and evening temperatures can quickly drop below zero and the wind can be relentless. This trek is not for the faint of heart. It is challenging and that is largely because of the altitude. Motorbikes are available to transport guests to the top of the mountain and a roundtrip ride costs 90 soles.
I paid the 90 soles and consider it money well spent as I saved both my knees and my lungs unnecessary stress. It was noticeably cooler than Cusco had been and the air was noticeably thinner. Thankfully, we had a bright, sunny day and the views were amazing.
Day 8:
Free day
The next day I relaxed and enjoyed my final hours in Cusco. I had an evening flight back to Lima with a connecting flight to Iquitos. It was now time to begin my Amazon exploration.
Up Next: The Amazon
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