In February of 2023, I traveled to my seventh continent, Oceania, visiting Australia and New Zealand.
Australia
My first stop was Sydney. Sydney is the most populous city in Australia, with 5.2 million residents or 66% of the state’s population. Aboriginal Australians have inhabited Greater Sydney for at least 30,000 years (not a typo – that’s 30,000), yet in April 1770, during his first Pacific voyage, James Cook “chartered” Australia, landing at Botany Bay. Prior to the arrival of the British, there were 4,000 to 8,000 Aboriginal people in the greater Sydney region. Needless to say, the first meeting between the Gweagal aborigines and Captain Cook did not go well as the aborigines opposed the colonizers. Cook later sought to establish relations with the Gweagal clan without success.
Britain had been sending convicts to the American colonies for most of the 18th century but the loss of the colonies in 1783 led to the decision to establish a new penal colony at Botany Bay. In 1788, First Fleet (a fleet of 11 British ships) led by Arthur Phillip “founded” Sydney as a penal colony with 1,000 settlers and 736 convicts.
In July of 1788, Phillip submitted a plan for a new town at Sydney Cove. His plans included a Government House, court buildings, a hospital, and other public buildings, and he left his building plans largely unfinished. A smallpox epidemic in April 1789 killed approximately half the indigenous population of the Sydney region, further slowing the building progress.
After Phillip’s departure in December of 1792, the new Governor, Lachlan MacQuarie (1810-21), took up the mantle and played a leading role in the development of both Sydney and New South Wales. He planned the layout of the streets, established a bank, currency, and hospital, and commissioned the construction of roads, wharves, churches, and public buildings. A road across the Blue Mountains was completed in 1815, paving the way for large-scale farming and grazing.
MacQuarie’s policy toward the Aborigines was the most liberal since that of the colony’s first governor, Phillip and it was his belief in development based on Emancipist agriculture that angered British landowners, causing an investigation and ultimately his recall to Britain in 1821.
After MacQuarie’s departure, free British settlers were encouraged to emigrate to Australia, and the population increased from 900 to 29,000 between 1836-40, many of the new arrivals settling in Sydney.
The outbreak of war in 1939 led to a surge in industrial development, causing unemployment to virtually disappear. At this time, women began occupying jobs previously dominated by males. After World War II, Sydney experienced mass migration, and by 2021, the population was greater than 5.2 million. Of this number, 40% of the population was born oversea,s with China and India surpassing England as the largest source countries for overseas-born residents.
Sydney, while a beautiful city with the iconic Opera House, bustling Darling Harbor, and Circular Quay and Botanical Gardens, is counted as one of the most expensive cities in the world. By the latest rankings, Sydney came in 10th and, ironically, is also classified as one of the most livable cities.
Sydney
Day 1:
Upon arrival on a hazy Sunday morning, I immediately set about exploring the area known as “The Rocks”, Darling Harbour and Circular Quay, taking in the beauty of the Botanical Gardens and snapping pictures of the iconic Opera House from every angle possible.
I thoroughly enjoyed walking along the cobblestone streets of the area known as “The Rocks”. They had a huge assortment of goods for sale at the weekend’s vendor’s stalls. Jade and opal jewelry, emu oil beauty products, brightly printed tea towels and the ubiquitous handcrafted boomerangs and didgeridoos were all up for grabs. Their food carts sold everything from potatoes on a stick (think thick sliced potatoes skewered like a kebab) right down to prawns, kangaroo, crocodile, and even emu. The food options were endless…Aussies love their meats and a good “Barbie” (BBQ).
I found it interesting that an area that was now so beautiful and artsy had such a sordid and humble beginning. From the earliest history of the settlement of Sydney, the Rocks had a reputation as the convicts’ slum (better known as the “wrong side of the tracks”) and was often frequented by visiting sailors and prostitutes.
Day 2:
I had a full-day tour of the Blue Mountains. We crossed the Sydney Harbour Bridge (nicknamed “The Coat hanger” because of its arch-based design) into the Blue Mountains, stopping at a clifftop viewpoint to gaze into the Jamison Valley (rainforest-filled ravine framed by sandstone cliffs) followed by a visit to Scenic World where we got to ride on the steepest passenger train in the world, glide between clifftops on the Skyway and Cableway before heading to Echo Point for views of the towering Three Sisters rock formations. We visited Featherdale Wildlife Park, followed by a ferry ride back to central Sydney along the Parramatta River, where we passed all of Sydney’s landmarks.
Day 3:
For my final day in Sydney, I had intended to just wander around, possibly having high tea at the QVB Tea Room in the Queen Victoria Building, but opted for a beach day and headed to Bondi Beach. With views that reminded me of those I had seen of Ipanema beach in Rio, Bondi Beach was simply stunning. I couldn’t have asked for better weather, and the next thing I knew, I was knee-deep in the water, fully clothed! I visited the Queen Victoria Building later in the day, but the highlight of my day was my beach time.
Cairns
Day 4:
Bright and early was my flight to Cairns, where I would be circling the Great Barrier Reef on a Scuba-Doo scooter. While that was slated to be the highlight, I also really enjoyed the warm weather and sunshine of Cairns. The fact that my hotel was mere yards from the esplanade was an added bonus. I was literally surrounded by all the seafood I could eat.
Day 5:
My first outing in Cairns was on the Kuranda Railway. Included in the price was a ride on the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway as well as the Cable Car. The Cairns-Kuranda Railway was initiated by Christie Palmerston in response to a cry for a safe route between the gold mining belt to the sea.
Day 6:
In the late morning, I boarded the ferry headed to Green Island, and not far from there, we anchored for our activities. Extending for 2,300 km along the northeastern coast of Australia is the network of 2,900 individual reefs we know as the Great Barrier Reef. Coral needs three main things for growth: warm water, sunlight, and low nutrients. On this coast, there is a shallow continental shelf only 20-30 meters deep, ensuring the coral is in a beneficial spot.
Let me tell you, the Scuba-Doo did not disappoint. The Scuba-Doo is a scooter with a dome-shaped helmet offering a 180-degree view. There was a slight optical effect that made objects appear a little closer and a little larger, ensuring people stayed a protective distance from the corals. The Scuba-Doo has a continuous air flow so you just breathe as you normally would. You steer the scooter with “go/stop” buttons.
Each person is assigned a diver who points out things of interest and makes sure you’re not having any issues breathing or with discomfort from ear pressure. We had to wear scuba suits as, at this time of year, marine stingers or jellyfish were common. No other special equipment was required – just an adventurous spirit. I was able to take my Insta360 camera down with me, so I have footage of what it was like down under the “Land Down Under”.
Melbourne
Day 7:
Early flight to Melbourne – my final city in Australia.
Day 8:
The subject of many a screensaver was on the itinerary…Great Ocean Road and the Twelve Apostles. As we did the “reverse” itinerary, we avoided much of the crowd, as they were all at the other end of the loop. We pretty much had the Twelve Apostles all to ourselves at 10:00 in the morning. After leaving the Apostles, we visited Gibson Steps, Razorback, Loch, and Gorge. After a brief stop for lunch, we went on a rainforest walk at Great Otway National Park. It was a serene, leisurely walk, perfect after our midday lunch. Our guide told us our next activity would be “tracking” koalas at Kennett River. Well, we didn’t have to do any tracking at all, as we discovered one in a tree just as we entered the area. Next up was a brief stop by Teddy’s Lookout before heading back to Melbourne.
Day 9:
Brighton Bathing Boxes and Phillip Island Penguin Parade. Brighton Bathing Boxes were built well over a century ago in response to Victorian ideals of modesty and seaside bathing. The boxes remain almost unchanged, retaining classic Victorian architectural features with timber framing, weatherboards, and corrugated iron roofs. While uniform in size and construction, they bear the hallmarks of their individual licensees’ artistic and colorful embellishments.
While you can’t live in them or rent them out, the beach boxes attract a pretty penny – an often tightly held penny. Most boxes rarely ever hit the market as many are passed down between generations, while others sell quietly off-market. In 2019, a buyer paid $340,000 for Bathing Box 15, which had been in the same family for more than 50 years.
Phillip Island is home to Australia’s largest colony of Little Penguins (also called fairy penguins). More than 40,000 breeding penguins can be found on the Summerland Peninsula.
The Little Penguin is not only the smallest of all penguins, weighing around 2.25 lbs. (1 kg), but also the only penguin with blue and white feathers. Little Penguins have called the shores of Phillip Island home for thousands of years. They head out to fish during the dayand then head home to their burrows at dusk.
We didn’t get to see the actual parade the day we went, as the penguins took a different, more roundabout route. We were, however, able to observe them returning to their burrows from the safety of the boardwalk above their paths. To say they were beyond adorable is an understatement. Sadly, yet understandably, we were not allowed to video them or take pictures of them as they made their way back to their burrows, but I was able to capture a photo of one inquisitive one as we made our way to the viewing bleachers set up on the beach.
Fun Facts about Fairy Penguins
Fairy penguins have bluish-gray eyes.
The maximum swimming speed for fairy penguins is about 2.5 kph (1.6 mph).
Fairy penguins can breed throughout the year and have the shortest breeding cycle of all penguin species, which lasts about 50 days.
Fairy penguins rely on burrows and a nocturnal lifestyle to avoid predators such as swamp harriers, peregrines, gulls, snakes, rats, and lizards.
Day 10:
Grampians National Park
The Balconies and MacKenzie Falls were the highlights of our Grampians National Park tour. Fabulous views from each location, despite the haze we viewed from The Balconies.
Day 11:
I kept day 12 open so I could explore the last of Melbourne and spent the afternoon in the National Gallery of Victoria before my evening flight to Auckland.
New Zealand
Kia Ora – a Māori-language greeting which translates literally as “have life” or “be healthy”, wishing the essence of life upon someone, from one speaker to the other.
New Zealand is an island nation in the southwestern Pacific Ocean and consists of two main landmasses—the North Island (Te Ika-a-Māui) and the South Island (Te Waipounamu), as well as more than 700 smaller islands. Wellington is the capital city, while Auckland is the most populous. New Zealand has a population of 5.1 million people, with the majority being of European descent and the indigenous Māori comprising the largest minority, followed by Asians and Pacific Islanders.
The islands of New Zealand were the last large land mass to be settled by humans. Between approximately 1280 and 1350, Polynesians began to settle in the islands and then developed a distinctive Māori culture. In 1642, the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman became the first European to sight and record New Zealand. Europeans did not revisit New Zealand until 1769, when British explorer James Cook mapped almost the entire coastline.
Following Cook, New Zealand was visited by numerous European and North American whaling, sealing, and trading ships and European food, metal tools, and weapons were traded for timber, Māori food, artefacts, and water. Besides introducing potatoes and muskets, the Europeans also introduced disease,s resulting in the decline of the Maori population by 60%.
The British Government appointed James Busby as British Resident to New Zealand in 1832. Busby was tasked with protecting British commerce and acting as a mediator between the European settlers and the Māori. He was also ultimately tasked with apprehending escaped convicts.
In 1835, in the wake of an impending French settlement by Charles de Thierry, the tribes of New Zealand sent a Declaration of Independence to King William IV of Britain requesting protection. Ongoing unrest, the proposed settlement of New Zealand by the New Zealand Company (a company formed to carry out the principles devised by Edward Gibbon Wakefield – a colonizer who aimed to populate the new colony with a combination of laborers, tradespeople, artisans and capital) and the newly drafted Declaration prompted the Colonial Office to send Captain William Hobson to claim sovereignty for the United Kingdom and negotiate a treaty with the Māori.
In 1840, representatives of the United Kingdom and Māori chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi. The treaty went into effect in 1841 and officially made New Zealand a British colony. Unsurprisingly, a series of conflicts between the colonial government and Māori tribes resulted in the alienation and confiscation of large amounts of Māori land. In 1907, at the request of the New Zealand Parliament, King Edward VII proclaimed New Zealand a British dominion. Then, in 1947, New Zealand adopted the Statute of Westminster, confirming that the British Parliament could no longer legislate for the country without their consent. The British monarch remains the Head of State to this day.
Auckland
Day 12:
I arrived in Auckland bright and early on a Thursday morning. To my great delight, my hotel was less than a New York block from an area called the Viaduct. The Viaduct was similar to Sydney’s Darling Harbour or New York’s South Street Seaport area, with shops and eateries along the waterfront. The weather cooperated, and day one in New Zealand was great.
Day 13:
This day held a tour that I had been on the fence about as it was definitely not a cheap activity, but I am so glad I decided to book it. The Hobbiton, Rotorua, and Waitomo Caves Day Trip did not disappoint. The day started with a 6:30 AM pickup, and we headed straight for The Shire – the set of the Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies.
In September of 1998, Peter Jackson and locations scouts discovered the Alexanders’ 1,250-acre farm. They had been conducting an aerial search looking for suitable sites for filming Peter Jackson’s classic works by J.R.R. Tolkien. It was a match made in heaven. Construction began in March of 1999 with the assistance of the New Zealand Army. In total, thirty-nine Hobbitt holes were created. The designers paid amazing attention to detail, giving each one a “personality” of its own that reflected the occupation of the inhabitant. They even had real smoke coming from the chimneys and actual Hobbitt clothing hanging from the clotheslines.
Our next stop, Rotorua, is a volcanic wonderland rich in Maori history and folklore. Lying within the Pacific Rim of Fire, the region has one of the world’s most active geothermal fields. The Māori iwi (tribes) in the region discovered the practical and medicinal uses of geothermal activity hundreds of years ago. Hot springs provided heating, a way to cook and preserve food, and had therapeutic powers.
When European settlers arrived, they also realized the benefits of the springs. In true colonizer fashion, they set about transforming Rotorua into a spa town, like Bath in England. Over the years, the town harnessed Rotorua’s geothermal activity to provide an energy supply and eventually depleted it. While there used to be five major geyser fields in the area, there is now only one, called Whakarewarewa.
Day 14:
On my final day in Auckland, I visited the Sky Tower. The viewing deck gave a phenomenal panoramic 360º view of the city 600 feet above street level. You could literally see approximately 50 miles in every direction from the enclosed viewing platform or from the outside (if bungee jumping is your thing).
I followed up my Sky Tower visit with a trip to one of the highly acclaimed eateries – Rude Boy. Rude Boy had received stellar reviews online for their pastries and brunch menu. I will say this: Rude Boy definitely did not come to play…they slayed it. Check out the picture above of my hotcakes on a bed of mixed berry compote with thick-cut bacon slices.
Queenstown
Day 15:
Bright and early, yet another flight – this time from Auckland to Queenstown. My hotel sat on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and treated me to stunning views of the snow-capped mountains in the distance and the lush flowering bushes and trees in the foreground. My hotel provided complimentary shuttle service into town, which was only about a seven-minute ride away. So, once again, I checked in, and there were two things on the agenda: the Skyline and a trip to Fergburger.
The Skyline is touted as the steepest cable car lift in the Southern Hemisphere. Rising to a height of 1,574 feet (480 meters) above Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu to the top of Bob’s Peak, you’ll enjoy a spectacular 220-degree panorama with breathtaking views of Coronet Peak and The Remarkables, just to name a few. You may be wondering what on earth The Remarkables are. Well, The Remarkables are a mountain range so named by Alexander Garvie in 1857-58, allegedly because they are one of only two mountain ranges in the world that run directly north to south. An alternate explanation for the name given by locals is that early Queenstown settlers, upon seeing the mountain range during sunset one evening, named them the Remarkables to describe the sight.
After taking in the views at the top of the Skyline, I headed straight to FergBurger. I needed to sample the burger everyone had been telling me about. I have to say, it was one of the best fast food burgers I’ve ever had, and I’m not into fast food, so that’s saying something. Well played, New Zealand!
Day 16:
I got to take in Milford Sound on a rare, gloriously sunny day. fiord in the southwest of New Zealand’s South Island. Famously described by Rudyard Kipling as the ‘eighth wonder of the world’, Milford Sound (Piopiotahi in Maori) is breathtaking in any weather – with its fiord’s cliffs, mountainous peaks, and waterfalls but it was definitely striking on the day we sailed. I was told I needed to see it when it was rainy as the waterfalls multiply with magnificent effect. We saw one fur seal, and there were dolphin sightings completing a picture-perfect day.
Wellington
Day 17:
It was aboard yet another flight to my final city: Wellington. I was told there wasn’t much to see or do in Wellington, but I enjoyed my time there. As soon as I landed, I headed straight for the Cable Car, where I was treated to some of the best views of the city on a wonderfully clear day.
Day 18:
On my final full day of holiday, I took a formal Wellington City Tour.
Day 19:
Since I had a late afternoon flight, I decided to visit Zeelandia, a fully-fenced urban ecosanctuary. While I didn’t see much in the way of wildlife, it was really peaceful strolling through the paths surrounded by such greenery. Just what I needed before boarding my flight back home.
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