In a mountainous region in the heart of Ethiopia, 400 miles from Addis Ababa, stand eleven medieval monolithic churches carved out of rock. Their construction is attributed to King Lalibela, the emperor of Ethiopia from the end of the twelfth century to the beginning of the thirteenth.
The layout and symbolism
The buildings are clustered into two groups, one representing the earthly Jerusalem, the other the heavenly. Running through the center of the complex is a channel, which symbolizes the Jordan River where Jesus was baptized. The landscape of the churches, plus surrounding religious sites, all reference the Holy City.
The Earthly and Heavenly Jerusalem
On the north side of the channel are Biete Medhani Alem (House of the Savior of the World), Biete Mariam (House of Mary), Biete Meskel (House of the Cross), Biete Denagel (House of Virgins), and Biete Golgotha Mikael (House of Golgotha Mikael).
On the south side stand Biete Amanuel (House of Emmanuel), Biete Qeddus Mercoreus (House of Saint Mercoreos), Biete Abba Libanos (House of Abbot Libanos), Biete Gabriel Raphael (House of Gabriel Raphael), and Biete Lehem (House of Holy Bread).
The eleventh church, Biete Giyiorgis (House of Saint George), stands apart from the others on the north side, but is connected by a system of trenches. The last built of the eleven, it has been dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World”.
While the churches form a complex, each one has its own unique characteristics and treasures.
Biete Golgotha Mikael
A trench at the southern end of the Biete Maryam courtyard leads to the twin churches of Biete Golgotha and Biete Mikael (also known as Biete Debre Sina).
Biete Golgotha Mikael is unique and significant for several reasons. Like the other churches, this one was carved entirely from a single block of rock. This alone is a rare and remarkable engineering feat, but it gets even more amazing. Biete Golgotha Mikael is actually a conjoined structure. The union of the two churches renders the building structurally and spatially more complex than most others.
Biete Mikael
Dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, Biete Mikael functions as a guardian and protector shrine, representing angelic power and intercession. In the Lalibela context, his church stands beside the Tomb of Christ, reflecting the idea that angels guard the Holy Sepulchre.
St. Michael is one of the most venerated saints in Ethiopian Christianity — a warrior archangel who defends the faithful and the church.
Biete Golgotha
Biete Golgotha is named after and represents the site of Jesus’s crucifixion in Jerusalem. Of the eleven churches, this is the only one featuring cruciform pillars and relief-carved crosses. Biete Golgotha also features life-sized reliefs or depictions of the twelve apostles carved into the walls. Four of the twelve are visible, but the other eight are housed behind the curtains in the Selassie Chapel.
The reliefs lack inscriptions identifying the apostles by name. This was intentional, as the church was meant for the initiated, not tourists. Inscriptions would be unnecessary for worshippers who would already be familiar with the figures. Additionally, many worshippers in the 17th and 18th centuries were unable to read Ge’ez, the liturgical language; art functioned as a visual synopsis of important biblical stories or figures.
The Apostle Andrew
Since women are not allowed to enter Biete Golgotha, I was unable to explore this intriguing church. However, that didn’t stop me from acquiring a photo of the space.
The relief on the left was identified as the Apostle Andrew based on its iconographic attributes. The long staff, topped with a flared processional cross, and the large, rounded halo are uniquely his. Another detail associated with Andrew is the heavy diagonal striations in his robe.
The Apostle John
Scholars and guides have identified the relief on the right as St. John the Evangelist. In Ethiopian (and earlier Byzantine/Coptic) tradition, John is shown as the youngest apostle. This carving features a smooth, beardless face denoting youth. The lack of a beard immediately distinguishes this relief from those identified as Peter, James, or Andrew. The shorter, thicker processional cross held in his left hand has also historically been associated with this apostle.
You will note that the statue features a frontal expression carved beneath a highly textured, radiating halo, another signature feature of images of St. John. Additionally, in his role as the author of the Gospel of John and epistles, this apostle is often depicted holding a book close to his body.
John was one of the two sons of Zebedee who Jesus nicknamed “Boanerges” (Sons of Thunder) due to their fiery, zealous, and sometimes impulsive personalities. John was also often called “the Beloved” or “the Disciple Whom Jesus Loved.”
Symbolism of the Location of the Reliefs
Included in the reliefs is a depiction of Christ, which is an anomaly in Ethiopian Orthodox architecture. At the northeast corner, there is a relief carving of angels representing the Tomb of Christ. The apostles are meant to form a living apostolic witness surrounding Christ’s passion and resurrection symbolism.
Biete Golgotha – the holiest sanctuary
The chapel of Biete Golgotha is considered one of Lalibela’s holiest sanctuaries. Not only does it feature fantastic reliefs and carvings, but it also serves as the reputed tomb of King Lalibela, the king who commissioned the churches. The belongings of the king are also found here, including his wooden prayer stick, iron, horn, and elaborate metal cross.
Like most churches found here, Biete Golgotha is also believed to house, or formerly housed, a replica of the Ark of the Covenant. The Ark of the Covenant was a sacred chest built by the ancient Israelites to house the stone tablets of the Ten Commandments. The Ark is a relic of immense spiritual importance in Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity. The use of the church as a repository for the Ark magnifies the sacredness of this site.
Restricted Access to Biete Golgotha
Biete Golgotha is the only church where women are prohibited from entering. The restriction is not meant as a punishment or exclusion, but is rooted in ancient concepts of ritual purity. These rituals are similar to those found throughout the Eastern Christian world.
Restricted Access: women are not allowed to enter Biete Golgotha, adding another layer to its spiritual exclusivity and mystery.
In Old Testament law and Ethiopian Orthodox practice, women during menstruation or after childbirth were considered ritually unclean for certain holy activities. Because Biete Golgotha is believed to be exceptionally holy, containing Christ’s symbolic tomb and King Lalibela’s resting place, only those considered in a state of complete ritual purity (usually men or priests) are allowed to enter.
The Symbolism
The church’s name and symbolism directly link it to Christ’s suffering, death, and resurrection. This link makes this a place of ultimate sanctity and divine mystery. The church is treated almost like a miniature Holy Sepulchre. In traditional Ethiopian theology, the Holy of Holies (the innermost sanctuary) was approached only by priests, mirroring the Temple in Jerusalem.
Up Next: Beeswax Candles
Make sure you don’t miss any posts from Soul-O-Travels.com by subscribing here:
