The coffee ceremony is one of the most important social and cultural traditions in Ethiopia. It is not just about the act of drinking coffee; it is about hospitality, community, and conversation.
The exact origin of the ceremony, or Buna as it is called locally, is difficult to pinpoint. It is believed to have roots in the 9th century with the discovery of coffee beans in the Ethiopian highlands by a goat herder named Kaldi. The traditional ceremony, which involves roasting, grinding, and brewing, dates back to at least the 15th century.
The Legend of Kaldi and the goats
One day, Kaldi, a young goatherd from Kaffa, discovered his goats behaving erratically. They were very energetic, leaping and almost dancing on their hind legs. Curious, he observed them for some time, noting their behavior changed after they consumed some bright red berries hanging from a low-growing shrub.
After trying the berries himself, he also felt a surge of energy. Excited, he brought the berries to a monastery and told the monks about their energizing effects. The monks were skeptical, and one even believed the berries to be the “devil’s work,” tossing them into the fire.
As the air was filled with the aroma of roasted coffee beans, the monks began to investigate. Rethinking their stance, they raked the roasted beans from the embers, ground them, and mixed them with hot water, creating the world’s first “cup of Joe”. The monks discovered that the brew renewed their energy and focus, allowing them to stay alert during lengthy prayer sessions. News of the “miracle drink” spread across Ethiopia into Arabia, and the rest, as they say, is history.
Coffee is Life
Consuming coffee in Ethiopia is not something that is rushed. The beverage is not consumed “on the go” from a disposable cup while multitasking. Coffee here is so much more than just a beverage. It is scheduled into one’s day, consumed slowly and intentionally, and savored.
The Materials
The traditional setup consists of a table, a charcoal stove, a coffee pot, cups, flowers or grass, and incense. The centerpiece of the ceremony is a traditional Ethiopian and Eritrean coffee table or shelf called a rekbot. The rekbot symbolizes community, hospitality, and tradition, and typically houses all the necessary equipment for the ceremony.
A round-bottomed clay pot with a long neck and spout, known as a jebena, is used to brew the coffee. Once ready, it is served to guests in small handleless cups known as sini.
Fresh Flowers or Grass
Fresh flowers or grass are spread on the floor around the table, and/or on the tabletop where the coffee is brewed. They are not placed there because they are aesthetically pleasing; they are included because of what they represent. The presence of grass is symbolic on many levels. It conveys hospitality and respect, reverence and purity, life and fertility. It also establishes a connection to nature.
Symbolism of botanicals
The presence of flowers or grass is multifold. It creates a welcoming, festive atmosphere for guests, creating a warm environment. The greenery designates the space as special, separating the ceremony from ordinary daily activities. The color green represents renewal, growth, and abundance, which is a nod to Ethiopia’s agricultural roots and the natural origin of coffee.
The role of incense
The burning of incense is just as important as the presence of grass. It is also used to convey hospitality, as well as being utilized as a purifier and spiritual connector.
Frankincense or myrrh is the incense most often burned during the ceremony.
Symbolism of Incense
Similar to the grasses, the rising smoke of the frankincense is used to convey hospitality and warmth to guests. As the smoke rises, it is believed to purify a space, dispelling negative spirits or energy.
Frankincense is the incense most often used in Ethiopian Orthodox services, and is believed to bridge the gap between the sacred and the social. This same concept applies to the coffee ceremony. The incense transforms the ceremony from a casual gathering into something spiritual or liturgical. Frankincense is also believed to bring blessings upon those present, as well as safeguard them from harm.
Together, grass (life, welcome, earth) and incense (spirit, blessing, heaven) balance the ceremony—earthly and divine, community and sacredness.
Roasting, Grinding, Brewing
Green coffee beans are washed and roasted until dark brown in a flat pan over charcoal or an open flame. The smell is absolutely intoxicating to coffee aficionados. As part of the ritual, guests are invited to smell the roasting beans.
After roasting, the warm beans are ground with a mortar and pestle. The ground coffee is then placed into the jebena, water is added, and the mixture is boiled until frothy. As it is boiling, the flames are fanned, ensuring the jebena is kept at a steady temperature. Once the coffee has brewed, the jebena is removed from the heat and allowed to sit for several minutes, allowing the grounds to settle at the bottom. Unlike some other brewing methods, no filter is used; the grounds are separated by gravity.
Serving
The hostess pours the coffee in a gentle, thin stream from the jebena into small cups for each guest. This gentle pour ensures no grinds flow into the cup. Coffee is often poured dramatically from a decent height above the cup; however, a proper host is always careful not to spill a drop. It is served with sugar (or salt in the countryside), but no milk. In most parts of Ethiopia, the ceremony takes place three times a day: morning, noon, and evening.
Once poured, the coffee is not gulped down or consumed haphazardly like we tend to do in the States. It is served with grace and is often accompanied by snacks, such as freshly popped popcorn, bread, peanuts, or roasted barley. At a traditional ceremony, it is not enjoyed as a single cupful but is served in three rounds.
Coffee in Ethiopia is never accompanied by pastries or sweet treats, as is customary in the States or Europe. Popcorn is the most common accompaniment; however, bread, peanuts or roasted barley may also be served.
The Three Rounds
The coffee is served in three rounds, which grow progressively weaker. Abol is the first and strongest round. Tona is the second round, and Bereka is the third and final round. Bereka is considered the “blessing” round. A ceremony can last 2-3 hours and is the setting for conversation, negotiation, storytelling, and community bonding. Guests are expected to remain at least through the first round, but it is considered proper etiquette to partake of all three.
Abol is the strongest brew, rich, dark, and powerful. It symbolizes the beginning, strength, and respect. This round represents the start of a conversation and a connection with others. Tona, the second round, is made from the same grounds, so it is milder. This round symbolizes continuity, friendship, and mutual sharing. During this stage of the ceremony, conversations deepen and bonds are reinforced. In the Ethiopian coffee ceremony, Bereka may be the weakest brew, but it is the most spiritually meaningful.
“Bereka” literally means “blessing”. The final round of the ceremony ends with a blessing of peace, harmony, and goodwill over all those gathered. In broader Geʽez usage, it carries the sense of divine favor, prosperity, and sanctification. Drinking this round is believed to bestow good fortune, peace, and harmony upon the participants.
Up Next: Simien Mountains
Make sure you don’t miss any posts from Soul-O-Travels.com by subscribing here:
