Perched on a hill at the edge of Gondar lies what many consider the most significant church in Ethiopia. Debre Birhan Selassie Church in Gondar was built during the late 17th century, during the reign of Emperor Iyasu I (1682–1706).
Originally part of a larger compound of churches and religious institutions, Debre Birhan held no particular significance at the time of its construction. This all changed when the city was attacked by Mahdist Dervishes from Sudan in 1888. The Mahdists carried out a jihad, torching all the churches of Gondar and leaving massive destruction in their wake. Debre Birhan was the sole survivor.
The Mahdist Movement
In the 1870s, a Muslim cleric named Muhammad Ahmad preached renewal of the faith and liberation of the Sudanese people from Turco-Egyptian rule. Since the early 19th century, Sudan had been governed by Egypt, which in turn was governed by the Ottoman Empire. The Ottoman Empire experienced significant British influence during this period, as European officials, traders, and missionaries established a growing presence under this administration. Ahmad viewed this presence as a virus corrupting Islam and undermining Sudanese society. Proclaiming himself the “Mahdi” or promised redeemer of the Islamic world, Ahmad staged an open revolt against the Egyptians.
The Mahdist movement of 1881-1899 was a religious and anti-colonial uprising in Sudan led by Muhammad Ahmad bin Abdullah.
What is a “Mahdi”?
The Mahdist movement (1881-1899) promised a purer Islamic state and unity under the leadership of Ahmad, acting as the divinely guided Mahdi or leader. The term Mahdi is Arabic for “the Guided One”. In Islamic eschatology, this figure was expected to appear at the End of Days to rid the world of evil and injustice. Believed to be a direct descendant of Muhammad, his coming was expected to precede the arrival of Jesus.
Unable to suppress the revolt led by Ahmad, by the end of 1885, Mahdist forces had gained control of Sudan from Egypt and sought to extend their influence into the Ethiopian highlands.
Why the hostilities against Ethiopia in general?
The anger the Mahdists felt toward Ethiopia was fueled by religious hostility and retaliation for prior military losses. Christian Ethiopia was viewed as an enemy of Islam that could impede the spread of the Mahdist movement. There was particular disdain for Gondar with its famous churches and monasteries.
During the reign of Emperor Yohannes IV, the Mahdists clashed with the Ethiopian Empire numerous times. These conflicts were part of a larger power struggle in the region, with both sides vying for control of territories and resources. After suffering defeats at the hands of the Ethiopians, the Mahdists sought revenge for their losses by striking a key city. By destroying Gondar, they sought to destabilize Yohannes’ rule and establish Sudanese dominance.
Why was Gondar specifically targeted?
You may be wondering why Gondar, specifically, was attacked when Ethiopia is such a large nation. Gondar faced a unique set of circumstances that rendered it particularly vulnerable.
Repeated Civil Wars left the Empire Fragmented
The period from 1769 to 1855 was known as The Zemene Mesafint, or “Era of the Princes”. During this time, the power of the Ethiopian emperors declined, and regional warlords, known as Mesafint, gained significant control over different parts of the country. These regional lords frequently fought among themselves, resulting in instability and political fragmentation throughout the nation. Rivalries between the nobility and Yohannes IV, in particular, left Gondar weak and vulnerable.
Economic Weakness
The “Era of Princes” also saw the shift of trade away from Gondar for several interrelated reasons. The lack of centralized authority meant merchants were now forced to follow regional powers to maintain their livelihood. With its decline as the imperial capital, successive civil wars, and the ensuing chaotic environment, the city was rendered unsafe for merchants. As commerce shifted away from Gondar, so did trade routes.
Shifting Trade Routes & Decreased Resources
The dramatic shift in trade precipitated by the decentralization of authority within Gondar was exacerbated by a simultaneous drought of trade routes outside the city. Previously, Gondar had thrived on commerce with Sudan, but when the political landscape changed, this relationship was negatively impacted. The Egyptian conquest, Ottoman influence, and the nascent Madhist movement caused this corridor to collapse.
The European presence and influence also began to grow in the early 19th century. The demand for foreign goods increased, causing other regions, such as Tigray, to be favored economically due to their proximity to the Red Sea ports. Inland cities, such as Gondar, were no longer moneymaking prized possessions.
Gondar’s weakened economy also meant it couldn’t sustain large defensive militias or finance rebuilds after earlier raids and skirmishes with the Madhists.
Gondar’s Vulnerability
Gondar had been the imperial capital of Ethiopia for nearly two hundred years, but by the 19th century, it no longer served as the royal residence. Emperors opted to reside in other cities, such as Magdala, Mekelle, and Addis Ababa. While it remained an important political and symbolic center, it was no longer the fortified city it had once been. Militarily, Gondar had been left largely unprotected.
Easy money
Even though Gondar’s fortunes had shifted, it remained a wealthy religious center. Sacking it allowed the Mahdists to gather supplies and the funding needed for future invasions.
The Fall of Gondar
As you can see, by the late 1800s, Gondar was no longer the fortified seat of power and commerce from which Emperors ruled. However, as the old imperial capital and symbolic center of Ethiopian Christianity, the city was an ideal site for a jihad.
The Mahdists proved to be excellent strategic opportunists. They exploited Gondar’s vulnerabilities and launched an attack on the city in 1888. The invaders burned and desecrated churches and monasteries. All religious manuscripts, liturgical objects, and treasures were destroyed. Priests were brutally massacred, with some being beheaded in front of their congregations or tossed from rooftops. These deliberate acts of terror served to humiliate the religious leaders and intimidate any rebels. Many of the city’s residents were also viciously executed or taken captive to Sudan, where they were enslaved.
Why was Debre Birhan spared – miracle, or chance?
No one knows why Debre Birhan was spared, but local tradition claims it was divine protection. One Ethiopian tradition holds that when the invaders approached the church, a miraculous beam of light, known as “berhan” or an angelic presence, was seen. Whether they were awestruck or frightened, the Mahdists, allegedly, abandoned their attempts to burn the church. A second tradition tells of the appearance of an angel in the form of a swarm of bees, which attacked the invaders, driving them away. Either way, the belief that divine intervention saved the church is a key reason it is so revered.
Historians, however, have two theories for why the church survived. The practical theory proposes that the sight of the church’s interior may have induced fear or awe, prompting the marauders to leave the building and its murals intact. The strategic theory is based on the premise that the Mahdists had already looted Gondar extensively and destroyed most churches by the time they encountered Debre Birhan. They may simply have run out of time or resources to destroy every building, and the church was spared by chance.
Debre Birhan is the only church in Gondar whose murals, structure, and religious function have remained unaltered since the 17th century.
What Makes This Church So Special?
Debre Birhan is the best-preserved church of the Gondarine period. Known for its magnificent murals covering the walls and ceiling, it is a unique visual representation of Ethiopian Orthodox beliefs.
The present stone church was preceded by a smaller, older structure dedicated to the Holy Trinity. During the reign of Emperor Yohannes I (1667–1682), the earlier church was reportedly struck by lightning and burned down. Yohannes’ successor, Emperor Iyasu I, rebuilt it on a grander scale, using stone, heavy timber, and fortified walls. This is the version that survives today.
This tale also fits with the symbolism of the church name. The name Debre Berhan Selassie means “Mountain of the Light of the Trinity.” The lightning strike was interpreted as a divine sign, and Iyasu’s rebuilding of the church was viewed as linking his reign with divine favor and eternal legitimacy.
Unique architectural style
Ethiopian churches typically follow a round or octagonal layout. Debre Birhan was built in a rectangular basilica style with stone walls, a wooden roof, and beams. This design reflects a Gondarine adaptation influenced by earlier Aksumite and foreign Christian architectural elements.
Royal Symbolism in the structures
This nod to Gondar and Axum is fitting, as Debre Birhan was commissioned by Emperor Iyasu I for use as both a parish church and royal chapel. The Gondarine-style construction tied the structure to the broader sacred landscape surrounding Fasil Ghebbi, while the inclusion of Aksumite details paid homage to the region’s long history of Christianity.
The Kingdom of Aksum in present-day Ethiopia and Eritrea was one of the first Christian countries in the world, having officially adopted Christianity as the state religion in the 4th century.
The church compound is surrounded by a stone perimeter wall accentuated by twelve rounded stone towers, which represent the Twelve Apostles. A solitary thirteenth, larger tower (the entrance gate), symbolizes Christ and is shaped to resemble the Lion of Judah. Attentive guests will notice there is even a lion’s tail imprinted above a doorway in the wall west of the church.
The Interior
As worshippers and visitors enter the building, they are received in a vestibule known as the ambulatory or outer gallery. This is a transitional space separating the outside world from the sanctity of the church. During feasts, priests and deacons traverse this space, chanting and carrying the cross. The next space, the Qene Mahlet (“Nave”), or Chanting Place, is where the congregation stands for worship and is the most beautiful section of the church.
Stunning Frescoes
Every inch of the walls is covered in frescoes depicting biblical scenes and Ethiopian religious history. Murals of saints and apocalyptic visions are painted in vibrant colors with several different artistic influences apparent. Traditional Ethiopian iconography forms the base, accented by influences from Byzantine and European art.
In Debre Birhan, as in many Ethiopian churches, the murals communicated faith through visual storytelling. Many worshippers in the 17th and 18th centuries were unable to read Ge’ez, the liturgical language, so the walls and ceiling art functioned as a visual synopsis of important biblical stories.
The Angelic Faces
While the entire interior of the church is stunning, the ceiling is the highlight. The wooden ceiling panels are adorned with 135 angelic faces. The angels are painted in the traditional Ethiopian Orthodox iconographic style, featuring large, almond-shaped eyes and serene expressions.
The depictions are remarkably emotive, with each angel painted slightly differently, symbolizing individuality among divine beings. There is also symbolism crafted into their lofty placement. Positioned to stare directly down at worshippers, the angels represent divine omnipresence and protection, creating a profound spiritual atmosphere. Although the features of 13 of the cherubs’ faces have been eradicated by water damage, the majority of them are amazingly well-preserved.
It remains an active religious site, with special services and celebrations during major festivals, such as Timkat (Epiphany), drawing worshippers, as well as cultural enthusiasts.
The spiritual and artistic power of this modest-looking church has earned it the nickname “the Sistine Chapel of Ethiopia”.
Of all the churches we visited, Debre Birhan Selassie was my favorite. I spent a significant amount of time absorbing the beauty and serenity of the space. The vibrancy and sharpness of the murals belied their age. The walls retold the story of hundreds of years of Scripture. Images of the Garden of Eden transitioned to visual stories of the lives of the patriarchs of the Bible. The earthly ministry of Jesus was portrayed in a series of scenes culminating in His crucifixion. An adjoining fresco depicted the judgment of man, featuring sneering demons and tortured sinners in the depths of hell. To see it all laid out in a succession of painted panels was powerful and mesmerizing.
Up Next: The Cross and Ostrich Eggs
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