Gabonese Republic
Gabon (formally, The Gabonese Republic) sits on the Atlantic coast of Central Africa. The nation is bordered by Equatorial Guinea on the northwest, Cameroon to the north, and the Republic of the Congo on the east and south. As of mid-year 2024, the population is estimated at 2.5 million people. The capital and largest city, Libreville, has a population of 700,000.
Gabon has been inhabited for more than 400,000 years. According to UNESCO, people have lived in Gabon since the Paleolithic era (3 million to 12,000 years ago). The first inhabitants were the Pygmies who settled there during the late Stone Age. The oldest known reference to the pygmy people dates back to 2276 B.C.
Eager to learn more about the history of Gabon? Feel free to read my condensed history of this nation here.
Day 1: Libreville
My tour started in Libreville, the capital of Gabon.
The area around the current capital, Libreville, has been inhabited by the Mpongwe people for some 2,000 years. It is likely they began to become more concentrated in the region in the 16th century in order to take advantage of trading opportunities with visiting Europeans. The city served as an American Christian mission and a slave resettlement site, before becoming the chief port of the colony of French Equatorial Africa. By the time of Gabonese independence in 1960, the city was a trading post and minor administrative center with a population of 32,000. Since 1960, Libreville has grown rapidly and now is home to one-third of the national population.
Libreville served as our gateway to the national parks. After meeting my guide, Guillermo, for my briefing, I then met another traveler who would be joining the group. Niceties done, we went to rest up as we were to head off by road for Lope National Park in the morning.
Day 2: Travel day – drive to Lope
After breakfast we set out toward Lope. En route we stopped at the equator for a photo op and to inspect a young man’s “catch” of the day. While it is deplorable to see animals hanging from a stick by the side of the road, we were definitely intrigued. We stopped to ask the young man about his kills, which he explained were brush-tail porcupines he had caught himself.
We arrived in Lope in the early afternoon and settled in to await the arrival of the rest of our group. We were to be a group of five guests total. The other three travelers were completing a pre-tour extension to another park in Gabon.
Our accommodations at Lope Hotel were comfortable but the lack of support staff was problematic. With no direct competition in the vicinity of the park, there was no impetus to provide stellar service. One overworked gentleman prepared meals, served beverages, reconciled bills, answered queries and handled issues. Meals were scheduled for one time and arrived sometimes two hours later, and incorrect. This may seem like a small thing or a “western entitlement” but when you have activities scheduled for a designated time, this is a problem. There was definitely room for improvement on this front.
After dinner, we convened to get our marching orders for the next day. Our new friends were exhausted and retired early while the “Libreville contingent” went for a night walk around the grounds of the lodge. We were rewarded with scores of bat sightings, including one munching on some fruit.
Day 3: Lope National Park
The terrain of Lope National Park is mostly rain forest, but in the north, the park contains the last remnants of grass savannas created in Central Africa during the last Ice Age 15,000 years ago. As the park is located in the rain shadow of the Chaillu Massif, it has dry weather compared to the rest of Gabon. It was the first protected area in Gabon when the Lopé-Okanda Wildlife Reserve was created in 1946.
Large herds of forest elephants, forest buffalo and a variety of smaller mammals can be found here. Leopards, red river hogs, sitatunga, yellow backed duiker, various species of monkeys, chimpanzees, and 4,000 western lowland gorillas call Lope home. The largest group of mandrills in the world can be found here.
Mandrills live in large, stable groups known as “hordes” which can number as many as 845 animals.
Mandrills
The mandrill is a large primate native to central Africa. It is only found in Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon and the Congo. Originally thought to be members of the baboon family, they have since been assigned their own genus, mandrillus. Easily recognizable by the red and blue skin on its face and posterior, it is the largest monkey in the world.
Its pelage is olive green to dark gray with a white underbelly and yellow and white hands. Mandrills have an elongated muzzle featuring a red stripe down the middle with raised blue ridges on the sides. A blue ridge sits just above the eyebrow line. Red nostrils and lips form a stark contrast against white tufts of hair around the mouth which end in a yellow goatee. This distinct coloring is more pronounced in adult males. These distinctive colors become brighter when the animal is excited. They also have extremely long canine teeth that can be used for self-defense, though baring them is typically a friendly gesture.
Mandrills are one of the most sexually dimorphic mammals with males being heavily favored in size and coloring. Males typically weigh 42-82 pounds but the average is 72 pounds. Females, on the other hand, weigh roughly half this at 22-33 pounds with average being 27 pounds.
What don’t kill, doth thicken
Considered an omnivore, mandrills will eat almost anything. On the herbivore side, they prefer fruits but also consume leaves, bark, mushrooms and soil. Carnivorously, they enjoy invertebrates such as ants, beetles, termites, crickets, snails, scorpions and spiders. However, they don’t discriminate and will eat eggs and even smaller vertebrates such as birds and rats. They are mostly terrestrial creatures but will travel to the canopy in search of food.
They sleep in trees at night, but never the same one or same site. Like chimps they are intelligent creatures and have been observed using tools. In the wild, the lifespan of a mandrill is 12–14 years, but in captivity it is extended to 30–40 years.
Mandrill Tracking
Mandrill tracking was one of the most anticipated activities billed on this tour. The maximum group size that can track the colorful mammals per day is four. Larger numbers prove stressful to the animals. Accordingly, our group of five was split in two with two of us tracking them today.
We started off early with the excitement building, however, we had a difficult time finding them. After an hour of searching, we still had not located the horde. Ultimately, our guides determined the tracking equipment (radio telemetry) had failed so we would have to return in the afternoon.
On our second attempt, the lead guide, Lisa, determined the most direct route to the mandrills and we were amazed by the size of the family. We were told the family we were tracking was massive, numbering 800 in size. We were also informed that three females in the horde were collared making tracking easier.
Viewed from afar
Once we located the horde, we were able to watch them from afar through some dense foliage for approximately ten minutes. The foliage prevented us from getting a really close look at them but it was great just seeing glimpses and watching their playful banter. Lisa watched them intently for a while then realized they were on the move to the other side of the forested area. As we were a safe distance away, we began to follow them and it paid off. Fortunately for us, the path they chose crossed a road and we were able to watch as hundreds of them raced to the other side of the park.
While I enjoyed the “mandrill parade”, I have to admit I was a bit disappointed. I wanted a clear look and shot of one, just one, mandrill with all their bright blue and red colorings. Alas, it was not to be had.
Back at the lodge, our group was reunited and we shared our experiences. Day four, we would switch activities and I would be taken on a drive through the park to see what we could see.
Day 4:
After breakfast we piled into the jeep and off we went along bumpy trails into the park. Forest elephants and forest buffalo were easy finds. Duikers, sitatunga and the numerous species of monkey the park is known for were nicely tucked away in the dense foliage of the park.
Epauletted fruit bats
Lunchtime at the lodge yielded several epauletted fruit bats roosting in the eaves of one of the chalets.
The Wahlberg’s epauletted fruit bat’s range extends from Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Congo, and Angola through the southern Democratic Republic of the Congo and Rwanda.
This species is named for erectable epaulettes of hair that form around large scent glands on the heads of males only. Male bats are typically darker in color than the females. Males are also distinguished from females by air sacs on the neck that may increase the volume of courtship calls. The adult wingspan is 20–24 inches in males and 18 – 21 inches in females. Adults weigh 2.0 – 4.4 ounces.
These frugivores favor figs and guava and collected fruit is typically carried away from the source tree to another tree for consumption. The soft tissue and fruit are consumed while the seeds and skins are discarded.
They roost in well-lit open trees, under palm fronds, in dense forests near rivers, under thatched roofs and, rarely, caves. Roosting groups may be 3–100 individuals. Roost locations are typically changed daily or every few days, possibly as an anti-predator strategy. Roost locations may follow the ripening of fruit trees.
They are strong fliers and travel as far as six miles to find food. Their eyes are very large. Sight, as well as smell, are most often used as locators in their surroundings. Their jaws are strong, and their teeth well adapted to a fruit diet.
Enter the red river hog
After lunch we returned to the park with our entire group where we had a nice forest elephant sighting. I also got my first glimpse of a red river hog. I was quite curious about this species, as I had only seen pictures. We spied them around a watering hole not far from the elephants. Realizing these shy animals would be long gone by the time we all disembarked from the jeep, I snapped this shot from the backseat. I was the only member of our group who managed to get a photo, much to the envy of my fellow travelers.
The red river hog or bushpig is a wild member of the pig family found near rainforests, rivers and swamps ranging from the Congo to Gambia.
The river hog is covered in striking orange to reddish-brown fur with a tufted white stripe running along the spine. Adults have white markings around the eyes and on the cheeks and jaws; the rest of the muzzle and face are a contrasting black. The fur on the jaw and the flanks is longer than that on the body and males have especially prominent facial whiskers. The ears are long and thin, ending in tufts of white or black hair that may reach 4 inches in length. They are also dysmorphic with males larger than females.
The reddish-brown fur of the red river hog contrasts with other species of pig native to tropical Africa which have very little hair.
Males have distinct bony, conical protuberances on either side of the snout. It is believed these protuberances protect the boar’s facial tendons during combat with other males. They also have small, sharp tusks. Adults weigh 100 to 250 pounds and stand 22 to 31 inches high. They measure 39 to 57 inches in length.
The species is omnivorous, eating mostly roots and tubers but supplements its diet with fruit, eggs, carrion, insects and lizards. While they are often active during the day, they are considered nocturnal animals.
A group of red river hogs is called a “sounder”.
They live in small groups of approximately 6-10 animals comprised of an adult male and several adult females and their offspring. However, much larger groups, with over 30 individuals, may be noted in areas with particularly favorable conditions. The boar will defend his harem aggressively against predators.
Day 5:
Two more safaris were slated for today and then we would be heading to Ndjole on the night train. The morning drive yielded numerous beekeeper sightings and one beautiful sitatunga.
The sitatunga is a medium-sized sexually dysmorphic antelope with males considerably larger than females. The head-and-body length is typically between 54–70 inches in males and 41–57 inches in females. Males typically weigh 168–262 pounds, while females weigh 53–126 pounds. Only males possess spiral-shaped horns, which measure 18-36 inches in length. Although closely related to the waterbuck, the sitatunga is almost indistinguishable from the nyala found in southeastern Africa.
The coat color varies geographically but is, generally, a rufous red in juveniles and chestnut in females. There are white facial markings, as well as several faint stripes and spots on the body. White patches can also be seen on the throat, near the head and the chest. As males age, their coats darken becoming gray to dark brown. Males also develop a rough, scraggy brown mane and have a white dorsal stripe. Males have facial marks like the female but also have a chevron between the eyes.
One final drive – or maybe not
Our final drive was slated to occur after lunch. However, we were abruptly retrieved from the park as our guide had received word that our train to our next stop, Ndjole, was slated to depart Lope at 8:00 PM and not later that evening as expected. Missing the train was not an option – there was not another train scheduled until two days later. Oh, if we knew then what we know now.
In case you were wondering, Africa time is real!
Adding to the list of things to “manage” on a trip of this nature is the total lack of respect for one’s time. Whether it be the designated time for meals or the time a train is scheduled to arrive or depart, time is quite relative in this place.
We arrived at the station at 7:15 PM to get our tickets sorted and were told our 8:00 PM train would now arrive at midnight! Clearly, the train was either operating on “Gabon time” or someone got the time wrong. I was unable to tell if the change in time was due to the railroad, miscommunication with our chaperones or a measure of incompetence all around.
With no where else to go, we settled into the waiting room on wooden benches to wait. We had heard from other travelers that the trains were notoriously unreliable. In fact, the other members of our group who had done the pre-tour excursion to another park had issues with the train, as well.
Not wanting to succumb to the negative thoughts in my head, I tried my best to keep hope alive. When Trans-Gabon railway finally arrived, it quickly dashed all my hopes straight to hell.
Trans-Gabon railway
Imagine my surprise when the train arrived and our guide hopped off the platform and began walking towards the rear of the train. Apparently, the cars for loading cargo were aligned with the platform, the ones for passengers were not. With no other options, we followed our guide on the gravel alongside the train pulling our luggage like a caravan of hobos.
To board the train we had to powerlift our luggage over our heads and chuck it into the car then determine how to navigate the three foot rise to the lowest step of the train. I remember thinking, “How can this railway possibly think this is appropriate?” Our tour guides and train personnel were literally yanking folks from the ground straight into the car. Insane.
Once onboard we were pleasantly surprised by our upholstered, reclining, spacious first-class seats. As we settled in for what should have been a three-hour train ride, we soon realized we had been bamboozled. It was all smoke and mirrors. The service on the Trans-Gabon railway was abysmal.
Midnight Train to Georgia, er, NOWHERE!
We were moving so slowly, we could have walked past the train and not broken a sweat. We crept maybe two miles to the next town, Ayem, where we remained for HOURS. Allegedly, another train in front of us had broken down preventing us from proceeding.
After several rounds of fitful sleep, I awoke only to find we remained in the same exact spot. The train system, while it looks nice, is utterly useless to passengers. Initially, I felt that tour providers utilizing the railways to transport clients clearly did not have their clients’ best interests at heart (or their business rating, for that matter). When it was explained to me that traveling via car at night was a dangerous undertaking along poorly maintained roads, I was still not sold. It was just a bad situation all around.
We were expected to arrive in Ndjole around 3:00 AM the next morning. We arrived after 9:00 AM then had a two hour drive to get to Lambaréné where we would lodge for the evening.
Day 6: Lambaréné (clowns falling out of a car)
Lambaréné is a colonial riverside town famous for its multitude of natural lakes, endemic wildlife sightings and the Albert Schweitzer Hospital and Museum. This unique hospital was established in 1913 by German Doctor Albert Schweitzer.
We arrived in Lambaréné at the Albert Schweitzer Hospital and Museum around lunchtime. Understandably, tensions were high, we were hungry, frustrated, filthy and tired when our van finally pulled into the compound at Schweitzer. We must have looked next-level crazy to our hosts who had come to greet us as we disembarked. I imagine we looked like the proverbial clown car offloading a never-ending parade of clowns. I watched as our hosts’ smiles quickly faded as we piled out of the van fussing and fighting with our guide, Jorge. The dispute was over what activities would need to be nixed from the itinerary due to our late arrival. We looked a hot mess as evidenced by the wide-eyed stares of our lovely hosts. With a sheepish grin, I apologized on behalf of our group and explained it had been a long trip.
In the end, we got to do everything as outlined in the itinerary. Three of us toured the hospital and grounds while the other two waited for us. The hospital and grounds appeared as if they had been stored in a time capsule. Doctor Schweitzer’s office, his wife’s room and the hospital had been meticulously maintained. It was great to take a peek into this portion of history.
Doctor Albert Schweitzer
Ludwig Philipp Albert Schweitzer (January 14, 1875 – September 4, 1965) was a French physician, minister, organist, musicologist, writer, philosopher and humanitarian. Doctor Schweitzer is best remembered for his work as a physician in Lambaréné, Gabon.
In 1913, Schweitzer received his degree of M.D. from the University of Strasbourg. Schweitzer rapidly gained prominence as a musical scholar and organist, dedicated also to the rescue, restoration and study of historic pipe organs.
A devout Christian, Schweitzer became a deacon at the church of Saint Nicholas in Strasbourg, France in 1899. In 1900, he completed his licentiate in theology and was ordained as curate.
Embarking on his medical journey
In 1905, at the age of 30, Schweitzer answered the call for a physician with The Society of the Evangelist Missions of Paris. The committee of this missionary society declined his offer as they disagreed with his Lutheran theology. Undaunted, Schweitzer resigned his post and enrolled in a three-year course to earn his Doctorate in Medicine.
His ultimate plan was to spread the Gospel by laboring as a healer versus as a preacher. He felt his service as a doctor should be acceptable within any branch of Christian teaching. Schweitzer considered his work as a medical missionary in Africa to be his response to Jesus’ call to become “fishers of men”.
Schweitzer’s arrival in Lambaréné
The year 1912 was quite momentous for Schweitzer. He received his medical degree, married Helene Bresslau and decided to go work as a physician, at his own expense, in the Paris Missionary Society’s mission at Lambaréné. Through concerts and other fund-raising, he managed to outfit a small hospital (which has been preserved as a museum).
In the first nine months, he and his wife examined approximately 2,000 patients, some of which traveled many days over hundreds of kilometers to reach them. In addition to injuries, he treated a variety of ailments: sandflea infections, dysentery, heart disease, malaria, sleeping sickness Human African Trypanosomiasis (HAT), leprosy, fevers, strangulated hernias, necrosis, tumors, chronic constipation and nicotine poisoning. He also had to contend with deliberate poisonings, fetishism, and fear of cannibalism among the Mbahouin. Schweitzer’s wife, Helene, served as an anesthesiologist for operations.
The Hospital
After briefly occupying a shed formerly used as a chicken hut, they managed to build their first hospital of corrugated iron in late 1913. It consisted of a room for consultations, sterilizing and operating rooms and a dispensary. The waiting room and dormitory were constructed of unhewn logs and lined a path leading to the boat landing. The Schweitzers had their own bungalow and employed a former patient, Joseph, as their assistant.
After the birth of their daughter, Rhena, in 1919, Albert’s wife, Helene, was no longer able to live in Lambaréné due to her health. In 1923, the family moved to Baden-Württemberg, Germany. The home Schweitzer built for his family is now maintained as a Schweitzer museum. From 1939 to 1948, he stayed in Lambaréné, unable to go back to Europe because of the war.
Schweitzer was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1952. With the $33,000 prize money, he started the leprosarium at Lambaréné. From 1952 until his death he worked tirelessly against nuclear tests and weapons with Albert Einstein, Otto Hahn and Bertrand Russell.
Schweitzer died on September 4, 1965 at his beloved hospital in Lambaréné. Fittingly, his grave is located on the hospital grounds a few feet from the banks of the Ogooue River and is marked by a cross he made himself.
Present-day medical research unit
Since its founding, the hospital has been rebuilt twice, the second time being in 1981. At the time of the 1981 construction, a research facility was included at the request of the Gabonese government. The Medical Research Unit eventually became a separate non-profit organization called “Centre de Recherches Médicale de Lambaréné” (CERMEL). The unit is one of the leading scientific institutions in Africa working to end the scourge of malaria, and also serves as a highly-regarded training site for African physicians and scientists.
As of 2017, the unit had 150 beds, an emergency room, a pharmacy, a laboratory and an x-ray unit. The unit employs approximately 160 staff members, two surgeons, two interns and two pediatricians. Approximately 50,000 people use it each year.
Exploring the mangrove forest
After our tour, the group reconvened at the shore and traveled to a nearby mangrove forest to search for talapoin monkeys and red-capped mangabeys. We were able to catch glimpses of the talapoins in the canopy but they were largely obscured by the dense foliage. The red-capped mangabeys were absolutely elusive until the end of our trip.
We returned to the hospital for dinner and overnighted in the hospital guestrooms.
Day 7: Iguela Lagoon
After a quick breakfast, we bid our hosts adieu and piled into a motorboat. The only way to navigate these rural regions is along the rivers. To get to Loango, we first had a five-hour journey down the Ogooue River to the shorefront village of Omboue. Once in Omboue, we were transferred to a vehicle where we settled in for a two-hour ride to Iguela Lagoon, which sits inside Loango National Park. From Iguela, our final boat ride for the day would transport us 54 miles down river to our lodging, Akaka Bush Camp. As our boat pulled up to the mooring, we were struck by the beauty of this lodge located “in the middle of nowhere yet somehow in the middle of everything”.
Akaka Bush Camp
Nestled deep in the jungle at the crossing of the Ngowe and Echira Rivers, Akaka was a slice of paradise. Across the lagoon from our camp, we got to watch forest elephants enter a clearing to feed and bathe. There were cormorants and kingfishers whizzing back and forth. I now understood how Gabon came upon another of its monikers “The Last Eden”.
Akaka Bush Camp was a tented camp extraordinaire. Many people feel when I say I stayed in a tent that I am talking about a pup tent, mere poles and canvas separating me from the elements and wildlife. Akaka was so much more than that. The tents were canvas and steel frames outfitted with queen-sized beds, fully functioning en-suite bathrooms and electricity.
The meals we were served here were honestly some of the best ones we had the entire trip. Our chef was a young man who clearly was a culinary genius. He took simple ingredients from the nearest port city, Port Gentil, and made masterpieces. Once we got settled it was time to explore our surroundings.
Port-Gentil or Mandji is the second-largest city of Gabon and a leading seaport. It is also the center of Gabon’s petroleum and timber industries.
Lagoon boat safari
Once we got settled into our lovely rooms, it was time for a boat safari. A short distance from the lodge, we came across a herd of elephants grazing. There was a calf among them and they were naturally very protective. We observed them silently for a few moments…until they noticed us watching them from the water. See what happened next in my video below.
The African forest elephant is native to tropical forests in West Africa and the Congo Basin. It is the smallest of the three living elephant species, reaching a shoulder height of just shy of 8 feet. Like other African elephants, both sexes have straight, down-pointing tusks, which begin to grow once the animal is between 1–3 years old. The forest elephant lives in highly sociable family groups of up to 20 individuals. Since they forage primarily on leaves, seeds, fruit, and tree bark, they have often been referred to as the ‘mega-gardener of the forest’.
African forest elephants are considered to be more aggressive than other elephants, particularly when outside their forest habitats. When agitated they display dominance by spreading their ears, standing tall, raising their head and tusks, head-shaking, trunk-swishing or emitting high-frequency calls or trumpets. Elephants are extremely protective of their young and herd. They may become aggressive if they feel their calves or group members are endangered.
Day 8: Loango National Park
The eco-system in Loango National Park is one of the richest and most complex in Central Africa. There are mangroves, beaches, riverine forest, Congolese tropical forest and inland forest. What was lacking in Lope, we had in abundance in Loango. The wildlife was more prolific and varied, and because of the different terrains, it was much easier to spot animals. We spotted forest elephants, buffalo, red river hogs, hippos, sitatunga, several species of monkeys and a huge array of birds. We had to work a bit to see the lowland gorillas and chimpanzees but all our efforts were met with success.
Rainforest walk
After breakfast we were split into two groups (same protocol we used with the mandrills). One group went to visit the habituated western lowland gorillas while the other group explored the park on foot. Myself and another guest, trekked through the forest attempting to identify the sounds and calls we heard. We examined several indigenous trees and plants and learned about their uses. the We almost caught sight of the shy duiker and a chimpanzee but they were both fleeting. At one point, our naturalist had us sit on the floor of the forest and just listen to the sounds of the animals. It was absolute bliss.
Night boat safari
Anticipating a rough start the next morning, three members of our group opted out of a nighttime lagoon safari. Myself, another guest and three guides piled into our speedboat and set off to explore the lagoon.
The lagoon came alive at dusk as rosy bee-eaters returned to the tall grasses that lined the banks to roost. We heard them before we spotted them as their incessant chirps echoed down the canal. Suddenly, hundreds of the small birds appeared in the sky overhead. They flew in marvelous formations slowly descending with each twist and turn. We watched as they steadily approached the water, ultimately, descending in unison on a dense section of grasses on the bank opposite our boat.
We heard the trumpet of an annoyed forest elephant, saw ducks roosting in a tree overhanging the lagoon, discovered a roosting hornbill and even saw the rare Lord Derby’s scaly-tailed anomalure (squirrel).
Day 9: Gorillas!
Today was my turn to visit the lowland gorillas. This was not my first time seeing gorillas in the wild. I had great experiences in both Uganda and Rwanda back in 2022 and expected nothing less here.
Western Lowland Gorillas
Western lowland gorillas can be found in the primary and secondary forests and swamps of central Africa. The forests of the Republic of Congo host the majority of the lowland population. Swamps are considered very important feeding grounds and habitats for them.
The smallest of four gorilla subspecies, the western lowland is still a primate of exceptional size and strength. Like the mandrill, it too exhibits pronounced sexual dimorphism. Males weigh an average of 310 pounds while females an average of 200 pounds.
Lowland gorillas have a home range that spans between 3-17 miles. The group usually favors a certain area within the home range, but seems to follow a seasonal pattern depending upon the availability of ripening fruits and large open clearings, swamps and “bais”.
The lowland gorillas we encountered at Loango formed a family of 30 but then could be broken into smaller “nuclear” families of 4-8 members.
Gorilla communities
Lowland gorillas are not very territorial so it is quite common for neighboring families of gorillas to merge and form one large group led by a silverback male. In cases where there are more than one male, it is usually father and son. The leader acts as the protector and organizes group activities like where to eat and nest.
Before reaching the age of sexual maturity, both males and females leave their natal group. The males go through a “bachelor stage” where they remain in isolation or become part of a non-breeding group. This stage can last several years.
Females, on the other hand, are always part of a breeding group. Reaching sexual maturity at age 8 or 9, they have single births with a gestation period of nine months. Ironically, newborn gorillas are tiny at only four pounds but from the age of four months can cling to their mother’s backs where they ride until approximately age three. They remain reliant upon their mother until age five.
Adult male gorillas have been known to commit infanticide in order to mate with a female, who otherwise would have been too busy caring for her baby.
Adult male gorillas have been known to kill babies in the group. However, they do not usually kill their own offspring. Breeding groups usually consist of one silverback male, three adult females and their offspring. Males ultimately like to settle with other male members of their family.
These highly intelligent creatures possess excellent problem solving capabilities, as seen from their ability to fashion tools to help them gather food.
Same story, different day
The group that visited the gorillas yesterday had regaled us with stories of the horrors of crossing a swamp to see them. I recalled the “shellshocked” looks on their faces when they returned to camp several hours later than the anticipated time. They had been covered in mud and dirt and one guest even found a leech had latched onto her skin. My group prayed for an easier route but it was not to be. !
Putting the work in
Our researcher, Gabrielle Cottam, greeted us warmly at the dock as our motorboat pulled in. After administering our COVID tests, she gave us a brief orientation and introduced the team that would be escorting us. In addition to her, we would have a guide, Joris Taty, and a tracker, Arnaud Mateba. Unfortunately, the gorillas were in the same area they were in yesterday meaning we would have to cross the same section of swamp our friends did. Oh, joy!
The swamp was not very deep and looked quite serene and innocuous from solid ground. It was quite a different story once we proceeded to cross. The gents, armed with a machete, cut down several young trees in preparation. Three trees were used to make a makeshift “bridge”. The bridge enabled us to get to a large felled tree that led into the heart of the swamp. We were also each given a pole crafted from these young trees which we would use for support and balance.
The crossing
We navigated the felled tree with no issues. The problems started after we reached the end of the tree. Our guides rested slender “logs” – and I am using the term loosely here – on buoyant tufts of vegetation that dotted the swamp. I compared the width of the logs to the balance beams used in gymnastics but I believe these weren’t quite 4 inches across.
Welcome to Cirque du Soleil
We were instructed to balance on the log and make our way to the grasses. Gabrielle explained that while the grasses didn’t look like much they could actually bear our weight. I had some doubts that those little patches of grass would support the weight of a three year old but I had to trust her. Beneath the logs waited an anxiety inducing black pond of water and mud. The poles were a great assist in helping us steady ourselves as we inched along the log but there was a catch. You had to pick the right spot to stake the pole in or it would be utterly useless and sinking in the mud.
I felt as though I was auditioning for a part in Cirque du Soleil. Needless to say, we had to tread very lightly. One false step and down you went into a pool of mud between three and four feet deep. The whole scenario reminded me of log rolling competitions I’ve seen on television, except their logs were much larger and more substantial. These “twigs” inspired no confidence in me that they could actually bear my tonnage. I held my breath and inched along waiting to hear the dreaded crack that would send me plummeting into a bed of mud akin to quicksand.
Swamp diving
All was going well with the crossing until it wasn’t. I was the last guest of three to cross and at one point I could no longer see where the log was and had to step blindly. Of course, my left foot just missed the mark about halfway across and down I went. Thankfully, the area where I sank was only about 3 feet deep and the water only reached my upper thigh. However, the water wasn’t the problem – the mud underneath it was. My left boot became cemented in the swamp bed and there was no pulling me up no matter how hard our guides tried.
Taking a moment to assess the situation, I asked them to give me a minute. I determined I had to extricate my left foot from that mud or we would be there all day. I took both hands, placed them under my left thigh and pulled my leg toward my chest. My foot was finally free and I was then able to use my upper body strength to hoist myself onto the logs to get out. The researcher was quite impressed with how I managed to get out so quickly. Feeling a bit accomplished, I then proceeded to do it again! Not on purpose, of course, just another false step. I had to laugh at myself at that point because I’m pretty sure it looked hysterical from the other side.
Thankfully, our researcher and guides were excellent and had done this so many times before their expertise at crossing this bog was astounding. We made it safely to the other side and quickly located the family of gorillas.
Quality time with the gorillas
As we were walking toward the area where the gorillas were resting, Gabrielle told us that they had had a rough morning. They had a run-in with a charging forest elephant and the silverback male leader, Kamaya, was still showing signs of distress.
We observed them silently from several yards away instead of the usual 15 feet as we didn’t want to risk stressing them further. We had only a few minutes of watching them before we noticed they all began moving in the same direction. Much to our chagrin, they were all headed in the direction of the swamp. If “can’t catch a break” were people, it would have been our group.
Not again!
One by one, the troop of approximately 8 gorillas crossed the swamp, with Kamaya bringing up the rear. Being the intrepid gorilla trackers that we were, we reluctantly began recrossing the swamp behind them. Once again, giving them wide berth, we did not follow too closely. To our dismay, Kamaya crossed the swamp then sat on his laurels in the middle of a narrow path leading into the forest. We had a massive silverback in front of us and three-quarters of the swamp behind us. We were locked in a game of “monkey in the middle” where WE were the monkeys. With nowhere else to go , we waited patiently for Kamaya to proceed while perched precariously atop patches of vegetation in the murky water.
While we waited, we were able to get some really good views of the gorillas, as well as decent photos. Ultimately, our “roadblock” ambled into the forest with the rest of the troop. Gabrielle confirmed the troop had found a safe area lined with fruit bearing trees. Safe and content they were all eating and heard to be happily humming away. I surmise they were relishing their “red banner” morning. They had avoided certain death by evading a charging elephant AND managed to evade the prying eyes of the “hoomans”. Win-win.
Looking back over that crazy experience, I had to laugh. Even though I had a rough time getting to the gorillas, it was all worth it in the end.
Day 10: Loango – Port Gentil – Libreville
Realizing we had mere hours left in Loango, we had begun to give up hope that we would see red-capped mangabeys or have a better view of the red river hogs. However, our guide, Vladimir (yes, an African gent with a Russian name, go figure!) assured us that all was not totally lost.
We rose with the sun and headed out in search of the species that had so far been elusive. Vlad told us he knew a spot the hogs were partial to. We drove around without much success for approximately an hour and then we hit the jackpot. First we saw both a male and female sitatunga and then we came across a field full of river hogs.
Boss Hogs
Our guide not only knew the area of the park they would congregate in, he was able to emulate their call. Oddly enough, their call sounded like someone blowing air out a single nostril. We sat several meters away watching and recording them and they were unperturbed by our presence. After ten minutes or so, our guide motioned for us to follow him and he brought us even closer. We continued to edge closer every ten minutes until we were approximately 30 feet away. This was the most outstanding viewing we had during our stay.
With our hearts full of gratitude toward our guide, we returned to the lodge all smiles. We had a quick breakfast, collected our luggage and loaded into our motorboat to head to the ranger station to sign out of the the park.
One final treat
Little did we know what awaited us at the station. As we disembarked the boat, our attention was drawn to raucous shrieks emanating from the palm trees lining the shore. The branches were alive with the elusive red-capped mangabey in full display.
The red-capped mangabey is also known as the collared mangabey, red-crowned mangabey, or white-collared mangabey.
This primate is native to western Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea and Gabon and can be found in coastal, swamp, mangrove and valley forests.
The red-capped mangabey is primarily arboreal, scaling up to 100 feet into the canopy. The mangabey will, however, become terrestrial to escape a predator or forage for food.
The red-capped is sexually dimorphic with males being 25% larger and heavier than females. It is the largest of nine species of mangabey with a head-body length of 19–26 inches in males and 18–24 inches in females. Males weigh approximately 20 pounds, while females weigh around 17 pounds. Their tail, which is longer than their body, (measuring 20-31 inches) allows for balance when navigating around their forest habitat. Their lifespan in the wild ranges from the late teens to the late 20s.
The various names attributed to the red-capped mangabey relate to their chestnut-red crowns and white collar looping around their faces. They have black faces with striking white eyelids, which give their faces an odd expressive nature. Their ears and forearms are black and their bodies are covered in gray fur. Their dark gray tail is tipped in white and is often held overhead. The species’ teeth consist of long molars and very large incisors.
The red-capped mangabey is sometimes called the “four-eyed monkey,” due to their white eyelids appearing similar to another pair of eyes.
Partially webbed fingers and toes make them excellent swimmers. Their thumbs and big toes are opposable, allowing them to grasp items with their hands or feet. They also have a throat sac, which is used to amplify the variety of vocalizations they make to maintain group cohesion and territorial boundaries.
The mangabey is an omnivore, with a diet consisting of primarily fruits, nuts, and seeds. Their diet is supplemented with young leaves, flowers, nectar, roots, stems, mushrooms, bird eggs, and small invertebrates when available.
They have cheek pouches that extend into their throats and can expand to the size of their stomachs to store food for later when safe from predators.
Behavior and Lifestyle
Mangabeys are social creatures, living in co-ed groups known as “troops” consisting of 10-35 individuals. Troops are led by an alpha male, and relations between members are peaceful. They have an odd behavior where lower-ranking individuals show their rear ends to the higher-ranking to maintain the peace. Social grooming is also performed to strengthen bonds between troop members.
Upon reaching adulthood at five to seven years of age, males leave their birth group to find another troop where they can achieve alpha male status. Unlike some primate species, the males do not form bachelor groups. Rather, they will live alone until finding or creating a troop where they will become the alpha male. Females, in contrast, remain with their birth group, and form strict hierarchies with one another in order to avoid conflicts.
The primates are most active during the day traveling together to forage. Foraging begins early in the morning, often before sunrise, with them stuffing their cheek pouches to capacity for later consumption. They use their hands and strong teeth to rip tree bark to locate insects and spiders hidden beneath.
They are excellent jumpers and move effortlessly through the canopy, using their tails for balance. At night, the troop breaks into smaller groups to sleep in the trees.
Communication
Communication is key for the red-capped mangabey, and is done in a variety of ways. In terms of vocalizations, mangabeys use an extensive repertoire of barks, cackles, grunts and shrieks to maintain contact with troop members or intimidate other troops. This repertoire is further enhanced by the large throat sac, which acts as an amplifier. They may shake tree branches and use their expressive faces for intimidation purposes, as well.
The Farewell Committee
After putting on a show for the “visitors”, our “hosts” departed further into the canopy and left us to our business. After signing out, we hopped back aboard for our five hour ride to Port Gentil. With an early evening flight back to Libreville we would officially end our tour.
Confession is good for the soul
Gabon is a central African nation that doesn’t garner much attention from the tourism standpoint and with good reason. It is a nation that is extremely difficult to navigate. The infrastructure is basic at best and provides only two options for travel within the country: take the railway or self-drive. The railway would be the more ideal of the two, if only it arrived and departed according to schedule and were not subject to the whimsy of elected officials.
Please don’t misunderstand me, I never really set high expectations for a holiday. I always try to just be open-minded and flexible and work with the best the location or region has to offer. Based on my research, I understood that Gabon’s tourism industry is perfunctory at best. I also understood that Gabon is not a wildlife destination like Kenya, Tanzania or Uganda but I was a bit disappointed nonetheless.
A bit disappointed with Lope
Lope National Park failed to provide the prolific animal sightings I was hoping for. The landscape consisted of the high grasses of the savannah coupled with densely populated forested areas. Much to our chagrin, this combination provided more than ample cover for the wildlife making clear photos almost impossible.
While we spotted the mandrills, which Gabon has the most of, we could not get that “money shot”. While we spotted mangabeys, they played hide and seek in the canopies of the forest. The yellow and blue backed duikers were like shifting shadows in the forest, there one minute, gone the next. We had to work for every shot.
While my drives and treks there were enjoyable, the rewards were not commensurate with the effort expended in many instances. Don’t be fooled, this is not a region akin to the Serengeti or Chobe and one must manage their expectations.
Lambaréné was a great historical segue from Lope to Loango, which would be our final wildlife stop. Loango was much better in terms of the abundance of wildlife, variety and ease of viewing because the terrain was less densely forested. It also helped that our lodge was on the river, facilitating animal sightings as they hunted, lived or bathed in the water.
Gabon’s infrastructure is not ready and no one seems to care
At this point, I asked myself the hard question, “should the opportunity arise for a repeat trip to Gabon, would you take it?” My honest answer is, “probably not”. I did not dislike the country or the people – both were beautiful. It didn’t even matter that my fluency in French is minuscule. It was the sum total of failings on the tourism front, in general, and the lack of infrastructure that make it very unlikely that I would consider a repeat visit.
Up Next: Random Musings on Travel
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