The fertile Highlands of Papua New Guinea were settled approximately 50,000 years ago. At that time, worldwide the climate was very different. Temperatures were lower, the polar ice caps were larger, glaciers were more common, and sea levels were lower. Additionally, New Guinea was not an island but formed the northern part of a large continent. This continent, Sahul, also included Australia and Tasmania.
The initial inhabitants of the Highlands were nomadic foragers. However, around 10,000 years ago as the world climate started to warm, there was a shift. The foragers began to till the land and developed a fairly advanced agricultural society with distinct divisions of labor.
In the eastern Highlands, men hunted and cultivated while the women gathered and tended crops. In the western Highlands, men focused on breeding animals and trading while women were the cultivators. Taro was the primary vegetable grown at that time.
As time progressed, two new crops of American origin would drastically change the landscape of Papua New Guinea: sweet potatoes and tobacco. It is believed that Europeans introduced tobacco to the island in the 1600s. The arrival of sweet potatoes, however, is not so easily traced. Archaeologists believe the sweet potato was introduced to New Zealand by Polynesians 1,000 years ago. The tuber then spread throughout Indonesia, ultimately arriving in the Highlands, but the exact date of its arrival is unknown. Experienced agriculturalists, the Highlanders noted that sweet potatoes thrived under a range of soil conditions, whereas taro did not. Eventually sweet potatoes replaced taro as the predominant crop.
The introduction of the sweet potato also significantly impacted livestock breeding, particularly the breeding of pigs. Areas that grew sweet potatoes were able to breed pigs more quickly, thereby amassing wealth with this precious commodity. Pigs then became the centerpiece of the economy.
Mount Hagen & Simbai
Mount Hagen is often considered the true heart of Papua New Guinea. Amazingly, just shy of a century ago, the Highlands were visited by its first outsiders. In 1933, Australian gold prospectors, Michael and Dan Leahy, were the first non-indigenous people to set foot in the Wahgi Valley. They first made contact with the New Guinean tribes on Mount Hagen.
Mount Hagen was named after a defunct volcano and a German colonial officer.
During World War II between July and November of 1942, the Highlands was the site of the Kokoda Track Campaign. The Campaign was a series of military operations where Australian and New Zealand soldiers and their native guides prevented the Japanese from advancing toward Port Moresby.
Today, Mount Hagen serves as the capital of the Western Highlands. With a population numbering just over 46,000, it is the third largest city in Papua New Guinea. Traditional culture and beliefs remain strong in the region largely due to its remote and isolated location. Mount Hagen is renowned as a prime birdwatching destination and the site of two major tribal festivals.
Day 5: Wewak to Mount Hagen
This morning, we took a short flight (one hour) from Wewak to Mount Hagen then settled into our inn to rest up for the next day’s adventures.
Day 6: Kaip & Pogla
Departing our lodge at 4:00 AM, we set out for a village named Kaip. There was nothing to make Kaip stand out from the other small villages we had visited. Only those “in the know” knew what treasures could be found here. Kaip would serve as our gateway to traversing the hilly terrain of the district in search of the elusive bird of paradise.
The Bird of Paradise is known as “kumul” by the indigenous peoples. Kumul plays an important role in the social and cultural activities of many tribes. Probably the most famous of the species is the Raggiana which is the national bird of PNG. Symbolizing Papua New Guinea’s emergence into nationhood, the Raggiana is prominently displayed on the flag soaring above the Southern Cross. Viewing this bird in flight is considered a rare treat.
After a one-hour drive in the pre-dawn darkness, we were told “we’re here”. The first question on my lips was “where EXACTLY are we?”. I was legitimately confused as it appeared we were in the middle of nowhere. After a hike of approximately 30 minutes, the first streaks of sunlight began to illuminate our surroundings. Then, I began to understand.
With the mist covered mountains as a backdrop, we were led along a footpath to a cleverly obscured viewing platform. Apparently, the birds of paradise are not big fans of spectators (even if they have traveled a really far distance to see them).
The raised platform looked almost like a giant treehouse covered in black plastic sheeting and foliage. Once inside the structure, it took a few moments for our eyes to adjust to the darkness, but we quickly settled in. From our hiding place, we peered silently through strategically placed slits hoping to get a glimpse of this rare bird. It took quite a bit of patience, but eventually two Raggiana birds of paradise graced us with their presence. Landing on the upper branches of a nearby tree, the beauty of their plumage was on full display. Mission accomplished! We never did spy the blue bird of paradise. Nonetheless, we all departed the platform feeling quite accomplished.
As we descended from our perch, the sleepy village had awakened and came out to greet us. Once again we were warmly welcomed, asked where we were from and what brought us to their village, as visitors were rare.
As I boarded our bus, I looked back and the road was filled with people waving and smiling. As we pulled off headed for the main road, I heard a thud and felt our bus tilt to the right. Something definitely was not right. The weight of our vehicle had split one of the logs of the bridge and we were stuck.
As we filed off the bus to begin pushing the vehicle, I looked back and saw an awe-inspiring sight. Every man, woman and child who was able was running to help us. I actually saw the saying “it takes a village” come to life in that moment. I can honestly say that moment will always stand out in my memories of Papua New Guinea.
Our next stop would be a trip to Kumul Lodge where we would have an opportunity to observe several species of birds and visit a lovely waterfall. The Lodge had several feeding platforms set up around the property that birds found simply irresistible. The platforms resembled rectangular dining tables carpeted with foliage. Scraps of pineapples, tomatoes and papayas were laid out on the table or impaled on spikes. There was a constant parade as birds flew in and out partaking of the feast.
Day 7: Mount Hagen to Simbai Village
This morning was yet another short flight, this time from Mount Hagen to Simbai Village. Simbai is a remote governmental station located in Madang Province in the Bismarck range. Madang Province lies on the north coast of Papua New Guinea and contains several geographically different districts: islanders, coastal, river and mountain. Simbai, while situated high in the mountains, is technically considered a coastal territory, as it sits on the Wagol River.
Due to its remote location, Simbai was one of the last places explored by gold prospectors and Australian patrols. In fact, Simbai only started engaging with the outside world in the 1960s. The province is still quite secluded and insulated from the outside world. Villagers still reside in simple traditional huts made of karuka (leaves of the pandanus tree) and lead simple lifestyles. It is this same remoteness that has kept Simbai culture strong and rich with little external influence.
With the exception of several charter flights a day, there is no other mode of transportation into or out of this area. With a very limited infrastructure, devoid of paved roads, electricity or reliable cellphone signals, the life of the local people is still very traditional.
From the airstrip (and “airstrip” is a very relative term here) it was a 30 minute walk to the nearby village. As we disembarked from our “puddle jumper”, the entire village had once again turned out to welcome us. As we walked along the red dirt road, a local tribe, the Kalam welcomed us with a sing-sing and escorted us all the way to our accommodations. We would be spending a lot of time with members of this tribe during our stay in Simbai.
For the next three nights we would stay in the charming Skom guesthouse. The guesthouse consisted of a network of buildings made of wood and thatch and decorated with live flowers. With no running water, once again we had outhouses and creative showering options. Our host, Dixon, had carefully thought out every aspect of our stay and ensured we were comfortable. He later shared the challenges he had experienced while bringing his vision to life in such a remote area. The grounds were beautifully laid out, surrounded by vibrant gardens and views of the mist enshrouded mountains.
Days 8-9: Simbai Village
Introduction to Simbai
We had our first immersive experience with the living culture of the Kalam in Kramdum village. Kramdum has a population of approximately 600-700 people and the villagers have resided here for eight generations.
In true Highland fashion, the Kalam men are skilled hunters and the women cultivate the land. The people maintain strong and amicable intra-tribal relationships living as one big family. The villagers have a great respect for nature and the land. Considering this, the symbolic meaning of the tribe name becomes evident. The Sumerian word ‘kalam’ is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘kula’, which means ‘society’ or ‘family’.
The Kalam eat a wide range of vegetables including sago, sweet potato, taro, breadfruit and cassava. They also eat the leaves of each of these vegetables. Their protein sources are taken from whatever game the men kill or capture. The common method of cooking is either in a hole in the ground filled with heated stones (mumu) or in bamboo tubes over an open fire. We were able to view both of these cooking methods during our stay. While steaming vegetables in a bamboo tube was truly impressive, nothing could compare to our first “mumu”. I’ll be talking more about this a bit later on.
During our village walk we saw how the people lived and got to interact with them. It seemed we had every child in the village accompanying us as we walked along. Our junior tour guides eagerly pointed out things they felt would be of interest to us while shyly stealing glances. The women showed us their gardens and the different vegetables they were growing. Two families had captured cassowaries and we were told of the plans they had for them. Several women walked along carrying piglets that they hand fed and let us pet. Others showed us how to make floor mats from the leaves of the pandanus tree and we were even instructed how to make their trademark bilum bags.
In the afternoon, we were greeted with another sing-sing, just ladies this time, followed by an archery demonstration by the young boys.
Eager to show off their marksman skills, they lined up to shoot arrows at a target. It became interesting when a few of the older males joined in the target practice and got obliterated by the “young bucks”. The young men have, obviously, learned their lessons very well.
Eager to show off their marksman skills, they lined up to shoot arrows at a target. It became interesting when a few of the older males joined in the target practice and got obliterated by the “young bucks”. The young men have, obviously, learned their lessons very well.
Our last activity of the day would be to officially meet the men from the Kalam tribe who had greeted us with a sing-sing when we arrived.
The Beetle Headdresses
The Kalam men are known for their unique and impressive ceremonial headdresses. Typically measuring more than a meter in height, the crown is made from the heads of thousands of emerald green beetles. The torynorrhina flammea chicheryi or flower chafer beetles emerge in the millions each year. Measuring just over an inch in length, they feed on flowers, nectar, fruit and sap. Known simply as “mimor” by the Kalam, the insects have a beautiful rainbow shine or iridescence. The men scour the forest, collecting the beetles by the thousands, specifically for their headdresses.
Cuscus fur, flowers, and feathers of the local birds are used for further decoration of their headdresses.
The green beetles emerge in the millions each year during the fruit and mating seasons.
To complete their ceremonial attire, the men decorate themselves with special body ornaments known as “bilas”. Necklaces made of the threaded nodes of yellow orchid stalks, kina shells, cuscus fur and the beaks of the hornbill (locally known as kokomo) are all used to adorn their upper bodies. Traditional loincloths, or a bunch of leaves attached to a belt to cover the rear (known as a tanket, or arsegras), and sugar cane armbands. Small round kina shells or the feathers of the bird of paradise is threaded through their pierced septums to complete their look. The fat of a pig is used to coat the skin to make it shine, or alternatively, to provide some insulation against cooler temperatures.
Sutim Nus
Like the Crocodile Men of the Sepik region, the Kalam tribe also has a rite of passage for its young men. Between the ages of 10-17 years of age, young boys go into a special house for males. The house called “hausboi” is where they learn about their culture, and the responsibilities of manhood from the elders of the village. They also get their septum pierced with a bamboo stick or cassowary bone in what is called a “sutim nus” ceremony. The male initiation requires the slaughtering of many pigs; if the requisite number of pigs has not been amassed, the initiation may be postponed until they are acquired.
With our introduction to the Kalam culture complete, we retired to our rooms to rest. The next day we would experience our first mumu and have a “round table” with the villagers.
Welcome to the Mumu
A mumu is a traditional method of cooking large quantities of food in Papua New Guinea, as well as other Pacific islands. Mumus are only performed on special occasions, such as wedding parties, the birth of a child or to welcome guests. They may also be used as a symbol of peace or forgiveness following a tribal war.
The concept is quite simple. An earthen oven is created by digging a large hole and filling it with stones that have been heated. Banana leaves are layered over the stones, and food items placed on the leaves. This layering process continues with the final layer consisting of banana leaves and other foliage topped with more heated stones. The heated stones and banana leaves, in essence, act almost like a pressure cooker and steam the food. While anything may be cooked in a mumu, a whole pig is commonly done in this manner.
Our tour company, Wild Frontiers, provided the pig as a treat for the villagers who hosted us. We thoroughly enjoyed watching them prepare the pig and all the vegetables, and the jubilant mood that accompanied these activities. While I chose not to watch the animal be killed, I did watch as the men burned off the fur and then expertly butchered the animal.
There was a clear division of labor visible here. The men handled the preparation of the pig and the heating of the stones. The women handled the cooking. We watched as one woman made sausages by stuffing the pig’s urethra with chunks of meat and fat. Another woman demonstrated the proper way to stretch out the suet, preparing it to go on the fire pit. Absolutely nothing went to waste. They consumed that pig from the “rooter to the tooter”.
Girl Talk
While the meal cooked, it was time for our visit with the women. Sitting on the floor of one of their huts, we asked them about their everyday lives. We learned their customs regarding marriage, how menstruating women were handled and what happens when a child is born. They discussed their roles in society versus those of the men, and even shared their aspirations for their children. They were just as curious about us as we were about them. As we prepared to leave, one women broke into tears telling us that of all the people who visited their village, no one had ever been interested in meeting with them. As I hugged her, I whispered to her that we were trying to change that.
Bidding the women adieu, we returned to the meeting place to see how the pig roast was coming along.
To our surprise the meat and vegetables were done and it was time for the grand unveiling and a taste test. As we approached the pit, the air was thick with the scent of steamed vegetables. I was very curious to see what the sections of pork would look like.
As the ladies unveiled the layers of taro, sweet potatoes and meat, a savory aroma filled the air. Surprisingly, the skin of the pork shoulder was nicely browned and the meat thoroughly cooked. With each person assuming a spot around the pit, the feasting began. While we visited with the villagers and sampled some of their meal, our host was preparing the ribs of that pig for our dinner. A festive time was had by all, indeed.
Village “Groundtable”
Before dinner, we got to have a “groundtable” with the villagers. We formed a large circle on the ground and took turns asking each other questions. They were very interested in the outside world and the customs of our individual countries. One question that made us chuckle was when a gentleman asked if we had issues with rebellious children in our countries. We all simultaneously said, “Oh, yeah!” It appears that we had more in common than we originally thought. Our discussion lasted until nightfall when we had to bid our new friends adieu.
Day 10: Simbai to Mount Hagen
Rising early, we packed the last of our things and, reluctantly, said farewell to our hosts. Prior to heading to the airstrip to board our charter flight back to Hagen, we had one stop to make. We had planned a visit to a local primary school, however, classes were canceled for the funeral of a former teacher. As there are always multiple opportunities to do good on trips like this, we visited an intermediate school instead.
Each of us picked a table and sat with the students. They, like their primary school counterparts, were very excited to meet us. Unlike the children, the young adults were not shy about asking us the hard questions. I was asked about my educational and career path, racism in the States, and for advice on how to start a life outside of Papua New Guinea. I walked away thankful to have met these young people, hopeful that I had been an encouragement to them.
With our stay in Simbai coming to a close, it was off to the airstrip. Upon arrival, we weighed in (yes, you read that right), checked our luggage (which was also weighed) and chatted with the locals as we waited for our flight. About half an hour later we heard a light humming sound. As we searched the horizon for the source, our ride rolled up on the grassy field in front of us. Next stop, Mount Hagen.
Next Post: Mount Hagen Paiyakuna Show and the Hagen Festival
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