Namaste, Family!
For those who aren’t well versed in Hindi – Namaste means “Greetings to you”.
By now I think you all know I hit the ground running in New Delhi, India but before I get to that let’s start with a history lesson. India has a long, complicated history but I’ll run through a condensed version here.
Delhi is divided into two sections – Old and New. New Delhi is the capital with a population of approximately 11 million people – second only to Mumbai at 12.6 million people. Delhi has been continuously inhabited since the 6th century BCE. Throughout its long history, the city has been captured, looted and reconstructed many times over. The remains of 8 major cities have been discovered underneath it.
India was invaded by a Muslim leader from Afghanistan in 1192. For the next 100 years Delhi was ruled by a succession of Turkish and Afghan dynasties. In 1526, Babur (a descendant of Genghis Khan) from Uzbekistan conquered India installing the Mughal dynasty, which then ruled for more than 300 years.
In 1533, a Hindi king ascended to the throne by defeating the Mughals at Agra (home of the Taj Majal) and Delhi. The Mughals fought back and re-established their rule from 1556 to approximately 1739. However, they were defeated for the final time by the Persians who proceeded to loot Delhi.
Delhi was again conquered in 1757, this time by the Afghans. The British East India Company entered the scene in 1803 and by 1858 Delhi came under direct British rule. In 1911, the capital of British territories was transferred from Calcutta to Delhi, and in 1927, the name “New Delhi” was coined (New Delhi was also called Lutyen’s Delhi). Delhi was officially declared the capital of India after the country gained its independence from the British on August 15, 1947. Now that you have a bit of background, let’s get to exploring this wonderful nation.
On my first full day in Delhi, I had an impromptu city tour by a tuk-tuk driver followed by a proper full-day tour with a guide/historian. I visited India Gate, the seat of government, Red Fort, Lotus Temple and Qutub Minar just to name the major sites. I was also aware that Delhi had a popping street art scene but I wasn’t ready for the insane full-building murals you see above.
Agra
The next day I rose at 1:45 AM or should I say I never slept in anticipation of what lay ahead. My guide picked me up at 2:30 AM and we set off headed to Agra. It was pitch black outside as we raced to beat the sunrise. Watching the sun rise over the Taj Mahal and seeing the white marble drenched in a golden glow as the rays reflected off the gemstones embedded in the facade defies words. It was absolutely stunning.
The magnificent Taj Mahal
The Taj was designed by Shah Jahan for his third and favorite wife Mumtaz. How you may wonder did Mumtaz become his favorite over his other 2 wives? She bore him 14 children that’s how! Upon giving birth to the 14th child, poor Mumtaz died leaving Shah Jahan heartbroken. As a monument to his love for her, he embarked on a massive building project six months after her death in June of 1653. It took 17 years to complete and an additional 5 years to complete the royal mosque and guesthouse that flank it on either side. The building project cost a pearl-clutching 32 million rupees or $827 million.
The materials
To construct the Taj, materials were brought from all parts of India and Asia. Makrana marble was brought from Makrana, Rajasthan and 28 types of precious and semi-precious stones were inlaid throughout the structure. Jasper from Punjab, jade and crystal from China, turquoise from Tibet, lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, sapphires from Sri Lanka, carnelian from Arabia, as well as black onyx, red coral, malachite and other stones.
To transport construction materials, 1,000 elephants were used and 20,000 artisans, craftsmen, and laborers were employed. It is estimated that at the time the structure cost 32 million Indian rupees. Translated into current values, it would be approximately 52.8 billion rupees or $827 million dollars!
The search for tigers
The next day after recovering from my all-day excursion to the Taj, I traveled to Madhavacharya Pradesh province. I would call Samode Lodge home for the next three days while I tracked the endangered Bengal tiger. The lodge was exquisite, the naturalists were at the top of their game, and the hosts were warm and welcoming. I fully intend to return someday.
After Jabalpur, I was off to Jaipur. First on the itinerary was Amber Fort, Hawa Mahal Palace, Nahargarh Fort, and Jaigarh Fort.
Jaipur
The next day I met Janu of JanuPrivateTours.com for a full-day tour. We visited the amazing architectural feat, the Chand Baori Abhaneri Stepwell, in the town of Abhaneri, as well as the Monkey Temple.
Chand Baori
The stepwell is rumored to be named after a local ruler named Raja Chanda. The oldest parts of the step-well date from the 8th century. The upper stories were built around the 18th century during the Mughal era. There are 3,500 steps over 13 stories. It extends approximately 100 feet into the ground making it one of the deepest and largest stepwells in India. Used as a community gathering during times of drought, one side of the well has a pavilion and resting room for the royals.
Chand Baori lies 93 km. away from Jaipur so during the two-hour drive both ways, I had a lot of time to discuss life in India with my guide, Janu. Janu taught me a LOT about the culture and the different religions. I’m talking stuff you just can’t get from Googling “Indian culture”. We chatted about family life, dating in the Hindu culture, arranged marriages (the good, the bad, and the ugly), settling family conflicts, how they handle death and births, men and women relations, female empowerment in a strongly patriarchal society – you name it, we discussed it. By the time we reached the Monkey Temple, Janu and I were like old friends.
Monkey Temple
Monkey Temple or Galta Ji is an ancient Hindu pilgrimage about 10 km away from Jaipur, in the Indian state of Rajasthan. The site consists of a series of temples built into a narrow crevice in the ring of hills that surrounds Jaipur. A natural spring emerges high on the hill and flows downward, filling a series of seven sacred kunds (water tanks) in which pilgrims bathe to cleanse themselves of their sins. It is believed that a Saint named Galav lived here, practiced meditation, and did penance.
Hawa Mahal – Palace of Winds
Hawa Mahal was the next stop. Constructed of red and pink sandstone, the Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 and is also known as the “Palace of Winds”. The honeycomb shape and beautifully carved windows, jharokhas, and latticework all combine to allow the breeze to blow freely through the palace making it quite windy. The palace has 953 tiny windows on the outside walls to be exact!
In 1799, the Kachwaha Rajput ruler, Sawai Pratap Singh, grandson of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh ordered architect Lal Chand Usta to construct an extension to the Royal City Palace. The extension was built in the form of Krishna’s crown with five stories because Sawai Pratap Singh was devoted to Krishna, the Hindu god. Additionally, the purdah system was strictly followed at the time and this also played into how the building was constructed.
Purdah
Purdah was inaugurated by Muslims and later adopted by various Hindus, especially in India. This belief system dictated that Rajput royal ladies should not be seen by strangers or appear in public. In effect, they were to be secluded by means of concealing clothing (including the veil) and the use of high-walled enclosures, screens, and curtains within the home. The practice of purdah is said to have originated in the Persian culture and to have been acquired by the Muslims during the Arab conquest of what is now Iraq in the 7th century AD.
The manner in which the Hawa Mahal was constructed with hundreds of tiny windows allowed the royal ladies to enjoy views of the outside world without ever being seen, thus, adhering to the restrictions placed on them under the purdah system. After viewing the Jawa during the day, I knew I had to see this structure illuminated at night and as you can see from the picture above, it was stunning.
Mumbai
The following day, I hopped a two-hour flight to Mumbai formerly called Bombay (until 1995). Mumbai is the most populous city with 12.4 million inhabitants. It is also the wealthiest Indian city. Mumbai was originally an archipelago of 7 islands: Isle of Bombay, Parel, Mazagaon, Mahim, Colaba, Worli, and Old Woman’s Island (also known as Little Colaba). These islands were under the control of various empires over the course of history. The final colonizers were the Portuguese who “gifted” them in 1661 as part of the dowry for Catherine of Braganza when she wed Charles II of England. The islands were connected in the mid-18th century transforming Bombay into a major seaport. Today Mumbai serves as the financial, commercial, and entertainment capital of India.
As always, I did the obligatory city tour. This time it was a nighttime tour as I landed late. After seeing the sights and sounds, I retired to my hotel room to prepare for the next day, the official start of Holi. Holi is a holiday celebrating the triumph of good over evil (in a nutshell). It is not just a Hindu holiday but a holiday where all are welcome to participate and be festive. Complete strangers will walk up to you and smear you with dye if you are deemed to be too clean. They will also pelt you with water balloons. No malice involved, just fun.
Elephanta Caves
The next day, after spending all evening cleaning up all that colorful dye, I visited the Elephanta Caves. The island of Gharapuri (which translates into “the city of caves”) lies 6.2 miles east of Mumbai in Mumbai Harbor and houses the Elephanta Caves. The Elephanta Caves are a collection of cave temples that contain rock-cut stone sculptures. The sculptures are predominantly dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. They also show syncretism between Hindu and Buddhist ideas and iconography. The sculptures date to between the 5th and 9th centuries but most scholars consider them to have been completed by about 550 CE.
In 1534, Sultan Bahādur Shah, the ruler of Gujarat, ceded the island to the Portuguese. Gharapuri had also been called Elefante but this morphed into Elephanta when the colonial Portuguese arrived and found elephant statues in the caves.
The Great Cave
The main cave also called the Great Cave, was a Hindu place of worship until the arrival of the Portuguese. Upon their arrival, the island ceased to be an active place of worship. The caves are hewn from solid basalt rock and, unfortunately, much of the artwork was defaced and damaged thanks to the Portuguese. They converted the island into a watchtower and installed cannons on the hill facing the caves. The sculptures of the Hindu deities were used for target practice. The earliest attempts to prevent further damage to the caves were started by British India officials in 1909. Major restoration efforts occurred in the 1970s and in 1987, Elephanta was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
And just like that, my time in India was over. I truly hope to visit again one day.
Ugrasen Ki Baoli
Ugrasen Ki Baoli – ancient stepwell or reservoir. The architectural form of a baoli consists of three parts: the well where water is collected, the flight of steps to reach the groundwater through several stories, and intermediate pavilions. This one contains 108 steps and 3 stories.
Jama Masjid
Jama Masjid originally known as Masjid-i-Jahan Numa which means “commanding view of the world mosque” was constructed between 1644 and 1656. It is one of the largest mosques in India and was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (you might have heard his name before and know one of his more famous commissioned works since it’s one of the 7 Wonders of the World — ever hear of the Taj Mahal? Yeah, he built that, too). The same architect that designed the Taj (Ustad Ahmad Lahori) also designed the Red Fort.
The building’s red color is due to the fact that it was constructed entirely of red sandstone and the white accents are white marble. After the Brits won the Revolt of 1857-58 they seized the mosque with the intention of destroying it as punishment to the Indian people but declined in the face of severe opposition.
The Red Fort
The Red Fort is another of Shah Jahan’s building projects. The building was commissioned when he moved his capital from Agra to Shahjahanabad (see what he did there? Shah-Jahan-abad – little narcissistic, eh?). By the way, ShahJahanabad is known as Old Delhi.
Construction ran from 1639-1648 and the fort came to serve as the main residence of the Mughal emperors for nearly 200 years. In addition to accommodating the emperors and their households, it was the ceremonial and political center of the Mughal state and the stage for regional events.
All of the fort’s former grandeur has been stripped. The jewels and the famed Peacock Throne of Shah Jahan are gone, but the fort now houses a museum. The royal baubles were looted by the Persians when they invaded Delhi in 1739. Much of the marble was destroyed by the British when they conquered India following the Revolt of 1857. No surprise there people…
Hall of Audience
Diwan-I-Aam, or Hall of Audience, is a room in the Red Fort of Delhi. This is where the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan (1592-1665) and his successors received members of the general public and heard grievances.
India Gate
The famous India Gate Memorial to the 70,000 soldiers of the British Indian Army who died during the First World War (1914–1921). 13,300 servicemen’s names, including some soldiers and officers from the UK, are inscribed on the gate.
Lotus Temple
Lotus Temple – Baha’i House of Worship invites people of all religions and races to worship the creator of the universe and express love between God and man.
An Iranian architect, Fariborz Sahba, was approached in 1976 to design the Temple and later oversaw its construction. The building was dedicated in 1986 and seats 1300 people.
The lotus design of the building represents the purity that is associated with worship and religion in India. All Baha’i houses have 9 sides with the number 9 representing completeness, oneness and unity. Only Baha’i faith scriptures are read in the halls when there is a service; otherwise, all are welcome to pray or meditate in silence, as no lectures or sermons are permitted. The Temple has 27 petals all made of concrete with with white Greek marble panels; the house is surrounded by 9 pools. This was honestly one of the most serene places I have ever visited.
The magnificent Taj Mahal in the golden glow of sunrise.
Palace of Mirrors
The Sheesh Mahal (“The Palace of Mirrors”) is a palace located within the Lahore Fort in Agra. It was constructed under the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1631–32, with some additions later under Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The ornate white marble pavilion is inlaid with pietra dura and complex mirror-work. The hall was reserved for personal use by the imperial family and close aides. It is among the 21 monuments that were built by successive Mughal emperors inside the fort, and forms the “jewel in the Fort’s crown.” As part of the larger Lahore Fort Complex, it has been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981.
Amer Fort
One of the top tourist attractions of Jaipur, Amer Fort or Amber Palace Fort sits atop a small hill, and is located about 11 km. from the main city. Amer Fort is an extensive palace complex that has been built with pale yellow and pink sandstone, and white marble. The fort is divided into four main sections that are graced with their own courtyards. The fort sits atop underground tunnels connecting it to Jaigarh Fort.
The main courtyard is Jaleb Chowk, where in earlier times, returning armies used to display their plunder to the people. The fort has a number of sections, including the King’s quarters, the zenana (where the women lived), gardens and temples.
Water Palace
This lovely building is Jal Mahal also known as “Water Palace” no explanation needed there. It sits in the middle of Man Sager Lake and has five stories, four of which remain underwater. Only the top floor is exposed. It is currently closed for restoration and the lake is also being cleaned. I hope to get back to Jaipur to see it once the work is finally completed.
Chand Baori
Chand Baori stepwell in the town of Abhaneri. Rumored to be named after a local ruler named Raja Chanda. The oldest parts of the step-well date from the 8th century but the upper stories were built around the 18th century during the Mughal era. There are 3,500 steps over 13 stories. It extends approximately 100 feet into the ground making it one of the deepest and largest stepwells in India. The stepwell was used as a community gathering during times of drought. One side of the well has a pavilion and resting room for the royals.
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal (Wind Palace) was built in 1799 as an extension to the Royal City Palace of Jaipur. The palace was constructed in the form of Krishna’s crown because ruler Sawai Pratap Singh, who had the palace built, was devoted to Krishna. The Mahal has 953 small casements each with a small lattice-worked pink window, balconies, and arched roofs with hanging cornices. This design allows a breeze to blow through the building and keep it cool naturally. Remarkably, each window is the size of a peephole.
Fun fact: The reasoning behind the windows being the size of a peep-hole? Royal ladies had to observe “pardah” and were not to be seen by the public or strangers. So, they viewed processions and activities on the street from these small holes.
Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan
Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan is the royal crematorium grounds for the Kachwaha, a Rajput clan that ruled in the region. The site was designated by the founder of Jaipur in the 18th century. The royals’ cenotaphs are scattered throughout the complex, creating what looks like a mix of mini open-air palaces and ornate towers. The structures mark the spots where former leaders were cremated.
Each piece of architecture is topped with an umbrella-shaped dome called a chhatri, which is a common fixture in Indian memorials or cremation sites. The most impressive structures are made of marble, like the one to the left, while others were constructed with sandstone. Some are embellished with intricate carvings of elephants, battle scenes, and nature.
Monkey Temple
Galta Ji more commonly known as the Monkey Temple is a large temple complex that lies 10 km. east of Jaipur. The temple is home to a large colony of monkeys comprised of two breeds, rhesus, and langur, hence the name. The monkeys are very brazen and unafraid of people as you can see from the one sitting on my shoulder above.
Galta Ji is unique in that the complex is centered on a natural spring that has been channeled to fill seven large pools in which pilgrims come to bathe away their sins, however, when the pools are quiet, the monkeys take over swimming in the waters.
Elephanta Caves
Elephanta Caves are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and collection of cave temples predominantly dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The caves are hewn of basalt and many of the sculptures have been defaced. The Portuguese used to use the caves and sculptures for target practice. SMH
This sculpture depicts the Trimurti (three gods): Brahma – the Hindu god of creation (center), Vishnu – the Hindu god of preservation (right), Shiva – the Hindu god of destruction (left)
“The Buddhas Within”
“The Buddhas Within” sculpture on the lawn of the Prince of Wales Museum. This sculpture was crafted as a therapeutic response to the tsunami of 2004 that struck Sri Lanka. This sculpture represents serenity and his belief that Buddha is omnipresent. On the reverse side are 1,500 mini-carved Buddhas: 500 for the past, 500 for the present, and 500 for the future and they represent water touching Mother Earth.
Gandhi Mural
On June 7, 1893, Mahatma Gandhi was forcibly removed from a whites-only carriage on a train in Pietermaritzburg for not obeying laws that segregated each carriage according to race. This sparked his lifelong battle for civil rights and India’s freedom. Eduardo Kobra’s work on the Churchgate Station is a tribute to the activist’s contribution.
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