Galapagos Islands
In December of 2021, I jetted off to Quito Ecuador – my launching pad prior to hitting the Galapagos islands. I did a day tour of Quito prior to boarding our sea vessel, Eden, and while Quito was not the most beautiful city I’ve been to, it definitely had its charm.
The territories of modern-day Ecuador were once home to a variety of Amerindian groups that were gradually incorporated into the Inca Empire during the 15th century. The Spanish conquistadores took over the area in the 16th century and Ecuador did not regain its independence until 1820 as part of Gran Colombia. Gran Colombia included present-day Colombia, mainland Ecuador, Panama, Venezuela and parts of northern Peru and northwestern Brazil. In 1830, Ecuador emerged from Gran Colombia as its own sovereign state.
The origins of the capital city, Quito, date back to the first millennium when the Quitu tribe (from the Quechua civilization) occupied the area and formed a commercial center. The Quechua were South American Indians (Incans) living in the Andean highlands stretching from Ecuador to Bolivia. During this pre-Hispanic period, the city was called Reino de Quito.
The Virgin of Panecillo sits on a loaf-shaped hill in the heart of the city and serves as a backdrop to the historic center of Quito. 135 feet high, including the base, The Virgin is the highest statue in Ecuador and one of the highest in South America (she is even taller than the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil). She is also the tallest aluminum statue in the world. She is also called the Woman of the Apocalypse found in the book of Revelations. Revelations 12:1 references a woman clothed with the sun, and the moon under her feet, and upon her head a crown of twelve stars. You will notice the dragon chained and sitting under her feet.
After our city tour which included a visit to taste artesanal chocolate at Yumbos, a visit to the Virgin of Panecillo we then took a break for lunch where we sampled one of Ecuador’s “delicacies” – roasted guinea pig. We had lunch at this eatery and, yes, that is a roasted guinea pig on her spit, and, yes, I did try it. It actually tasted good – like a cross between chicken and pork. The name of guinea pig in Quechua is quwi (pronounced “coo-we”) or cuy in Spanish. The animals were so named for the noise that they make.
Ecuador – is actually the Quechua word for equator, as the nation is considered the middle of the world. The Latitude 00º 00′ 00″ red sign marks the site of the “old equator”. It was discovered that the site originally believed to be the equator really wasn’t and the actual equatorial line lies some distance away. We visited both sites.
As expected, the Galápagos Islands were straight fire. This was my first cruise (I know some of you are in shock) but as you’ve probably guessed – this was no ordinary cruise, it was an expedition. We didn’t have a never-ending buffet or musical performances but we definitely had LIVE entertainment in the form of animal theatrics. We had frigate birds as our boat mascots accompanying us overheard whenever we left an island, sea lion pups always wanted to play when we came ashore and curious boobies loved to participate in the briefings our naturalist gave us each time we disembarked. The beauty of the islands cannot be described and even the pictures do not do them justice.
The Galápagos form an archipelago that sits on either side of the equator in the Pacific Ocean approximately 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador. Researchers believe that the Incas discovered the Galapagos over 500 years ago led by Emperor Tupac Yupanqui. Unfortunately, no written records or ruins have been found that can confirm they were the first to discover the islands.
If we put all 13 main islands of the Galapagos plus the 42 islets together it would be the same size as Puerto Rico.
Our first stop was Baltra Island, followed by Genovesa, Bartolome Island, Floreana Island and Espagnola.
Baltra Island
Unlike most of the islands in the archipelago, Baltra is not a remnant of a volcano but an uplifted island formed when volcanic activity on neighboring Santa Cruz changed the underwater geology causing the island to be raised up from the sea floor. Because of this, Baltra is flat instead of hilly like the other islands and is covered with rounded volcanic rocks known as pillow lava which are only formed underwater.
During WW II, the U.S. was concerned that Axis powers might assault the Panama Canal from the Pacific. Although Ecuador did not formally join the allies until 1945, they made a deal with the Americans and Baltra became a military base. In 1945, the war ended and the Baltra air base was given to the Ecuadorian military. The Americans stripped the base of most useful items before they left, and today there is little remaining of their presence. The Ecuadorian air force maintained the base and air strip and today it is one of two main points of entry into the islands by plane, the other being an airport near Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island.
The land iguanas on Baltra have an interesting history. In 1932, scientists decided to move some of the local iguanas to neighboring North Seymour Island to see how they would fare. They thrived, which was fortunate. During the war, Baltra iguanas became extinct, but some of the survivors from North Seymour were bred and eventually reintroduced to Baltra in 1991. Now, the most recent studies show a thriving population of more than 400 iguanas on the island, which can occasionally be seen wandering near the airport.
Genovesa Island
Named after the Italian city of Genoa (in honor of Christopher Columbus), Genovesa is a horseshoe shaped volcanic caldera whose wall has collapsed, forming the Great Darwin Bay. In order to get to the top of this caldera, we had to walk up a set of stone steps called Prince Philip’s steps (no, I did not take a picture cause I was holding on for dear life and trying not to bust my behind on those wet stones – LOL!). Genovesa is also known as Bird Island because of the large and varied bird colonies that nest there – we saw red-footed and Nazca boobies, swallow-tailed gulls, storm petrels, tropicbirds, Darwin’s finches, and Galápagos mockingbirds.
Pinnacle Rock / Bartolome Island / Black Turtle Cove
Bartolome Island is famous for Pinnacle Rock – a towering formation shaped like a shark tooth that rises from the ocean’s edge and is the best-known landmark in the Galapagos Islands. On a clear day, more than ten islands can be spotted from the top of the viewpoint.
On the north side of Santa Cruz Island sits Black Turtle Cove. A mangrove estuary naturally protected and virtually untouched by man, this cove is home to a plethora of animals and plants. Visiting this cove is not possible on foot or a large boat; you need a dinghy or panga, and the motor must be switched off upon approach. Total silence must also be observed because here, the animals rule. Most of the activity we observed here was underwater, so I only have a few pictures I felt were clear enough that even though you weren’t there, you could easily identify the life lurking below the surface. Afterward, we visited Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill) – a very apt name based on the “local residents”.
The islands are all of volcanic formation and were never part of mainland Ecuador.
Puerto Ayora / Floreana Island / Punta Cormorant
Puerto Ayora is home to the Charles Darwin Foundation, which was initiated in 1964 and serves as the center of the Galápagos conservation efforts. Here, we learned about the history of the islands and future conservation plans. Up next was the Fausto Llerena Breeding Center, where we observed several species of tortoises, from the massive adults to the young ones housed in the nursery. The young are cared for until approximately the age of three, when their shells have hardened. After visiting the Breeding Center, we were treated to a highlands tortoise visit where we were able to see these amazing creatures in their natural environment. This was where I got to try on a tortoise shell. 🙂
Floreana Island – After observing the local wildlife and learning about the island, some members of our group snorkeled at Corona del Diablo, then off we went to Post Office Bay. In the late 18th century, English whaling vessels placed a barrel here to be used as a post office. Today, the box is used (mainly by tourists) as we dropped off postcards or left handwritten notes for others to mail for us, and we picked up unstamped letters and cards to do the same.
Punta Cormorant is the only landing site on Floreana Island, and it reveals two amazingly different beaches: one with green sand, colored by olivine crystals, and another with white sand particles known as ‘Flour Beach’. We spent the afternoon observing shorebirds and tortoises feeding in the lagoon.
Punta Suárez/Bahía Gardner
We enjoyed the day on Española Island (it is one of the oldest in the archipelago) and visited Punta Suárez, known for its amazing bird colonies and home to the waved albatross. After lunch, we hit Gardner Bay, where we were treated to some fabulous beachtime amid surfing sea lions and inquisitive hood mockingbirds. After a short trek to a viewpoint, we were treated to views of the waved albatross.
What a way to end a holiday!
Fun Facts about Sally Lightfoot Crabs
These highly colored crabs were literally on every shoreline we touched down on.
Unusual for crustaceans, the Sally Lightfoot crab can run in all four directions as well as climb up vertical slopes. This extreme agility, as well as their ability to hide in tight cracks in the lava, is vital for their survival.
Sally Lightfoot Crabs enjoy a special symbiotic relationship with Marine Iguanas. These two species are often seen together with crabs eating parasites and ticks from the skin of iguanas. The crab gets an easy meal, while the iguana has these pests removed for free.
When on land, Sally Lightfoot crabs hold water in their shell in order to breathe, releasing drops onto their gills whenever required. The same water can also be used in defense, to be squirted at enemies if under threat.
Where does the Sally Lightfoot name come from? There are various stories about the origin of their name. Some say it comes from the name of a light-footed Caribbean dancer, others from their skill at skipping over salt water (sal is Spanish for salt).
Fun Facts about Brown Pelicans
Brown pelicans are the only species to dive into the water from 30 feet above to capture prey. After catching the prey and a lot of water, they tip their bill downward to drain the water before swallowing the fish.
While brown pelicans are known for diving, they will never be deep divers due to the extensive system of subcutaneous air sacs that give them their buoyancy in the water.
The pelican’s pouch (gular pouch) is used as a dip net to catch fish, which are soon swallowed into the stomach (the center of gravity) so that they can maintain their balance while flying.
They have an extendable sac of skin at the base of their throat, which is capable of holding up to 3 gallons of water – several times more than their belly.
Fun Facts about Galapagos flamingos
Galapagos flamingos have a distinctive crooked pink beak with a black tip, which is used to separate mud and silt from their food. Flamingos can only eat with their heads upside down. Their beaks have thin, flat membranes known as lamellae that act as filters for food. Flamingos are known to stomp their feet in the water to stir up food from the bottom.
Galapagos flamingos often stand on one leg.
It is theorized that this a resting position used to conserve body heat or reduce cardiac effort.
The Galapagos flamingo is believed to be monogamous and tends to stay with the same mate for life.
Fun Facts about the Red-Footed Booby
The red-footed booby is a seabird named for its very distinctive bright red feet. As individuals of this species become mature, their feet turn red, a secondary sex characteristic used in courtship behavior to attract mates. The name “booby” comes from the Spanish word bobo – meaning foolish – and describes these species’ clumsiness on land and willingness to approach people.
The smallest of more than a half dozen booby species, the red-footed variant is also called “piquero” (Spanish for lancer) due to it’s fishing technique. They can dive into the water at high speed since they have unique cushion air-sac bones in their head to protect the brain from the impact.
The Red-Footed Booby has no brooding patch (bare skin on the underbelly) to keep their eggs warm. They use their webbed feet, which have an increased blood supply.
The Red-footed Booby is one of few seabirds that build their nests in small trees and shrubs.
A group of boobies are collectively known as a “congress”, “hatch” or “trap” of boobies.
Fun Fact about the Nazca Booby
The Nazca or Masked Booby is slightly larger than the Red-Footed Booby and has a larger, more yellowish bill.
Fun Fact about the Espanola Cactus Finch
The Espanola cactus finch is a member of the tanager family (for those of you who have been following my travels, you may remember me snapping tanagers during my trip to Costa Rica earlier in 2021). This tiny bird has an affinity for the prickly pear cactus which is found in abundance on Genovesa island.
Fun Facts about the Swallow-tailed Gull
In the breeding season, swallow-tailed gulls have a black plumaged head and a bright red fleshy rim around each eye. Outside of the breeding season, the head is white, and the eye rim becomes black. A nocturnal hunter, the swallow-tail has the largest eye of all the gull species.
The swallow-tailed gull is a nocturnal bird and feeds its chicks at night. Its white tipped bill makes it easier for the chicks to see in the dark.
Fun Facts about the Short-eared Owl
Short-eared owls are deadly assassins. Their excellent camouflage keeps them hidden from potential prey, and their highly tuned eyesight can spot the slightest movement. The owl then takes to flight, swooping in silently before their unexpected prey even realizes their mistake. They particularly love to feed on storm petrels and have developed an interesting technique to hunt them.
Petrels are faster and more agile in flight than owls and nest inside lava tunnels. The owl has studied them, and upon learning where the petrels enter and leave their tunnels, they find a place to hide close to the entrance so they can catch them as they fly in and out. You so smart!
The short-eared owl is an elusive master camouflager that makes its home among the lava rocks on the clifftops.
Fun Facts about the Juvenile Frigate Bird
The juvenile frigate bird has very distinct wings that are narrow and taper down to a point on either side. Additionally, these birds are known for their very long wingspan. A male’s wingspan can be over six feet long.
These birds will use their hooked bills to grab prey from the ocean, but unlike other birds, they do not land on the water to catch food. The reason for this is they cannot touch salt water because they lost the gland that produces the oil they use to waterproof their feathers. You don’t use it, you lose it.
Fun Facts about the American Oystercatcher
This beauty feeds on mollusks, worms, and marine invertebrates and seems to prefer to walk than fly since their food source is on the ground. Come to think of it, we never did see it take to the skies but always saw them along the shoreline.
The courtship begins when the male and the female walk together pipping the same note or they fly off together; their bond lasts forever.
Fun Facts about the Blue-Footed Booby
Earlier in this photo journey, you got to see the Nazca and red footed boobies. Now, let me introduce you to the blue footed booby.
Males take great pride in their fabulous brightly hued feet. During mating season, males show off their feet to prospective mates with a high-stepping strut. The bluer the feet, the more attractive the mate.
The name booby is derived from the Spanish word “bobo” meaning “stupid,” which is how early the colonists characterized these clumsy and unwary birds when they saw them on land—definitely not graceful as they amble along.
Boobies feet turn blue when they are mature.
Male boobies will “whistle” to females when they want to attract a mate.
Female boobies have bluer feet. For once, the female of a species has more color than the male!
If you see a booby “laughing” – it’s actually cooling itself. To prevent overheating and lower their body temperature, the birds open their mouth and vibrate the skin in the neck.
Fun Facts about the Green Sea Turtle
The mating season for green sea turtles usually takes place in January. Females can lay up to 200 eggs the following month, but only a fraction of them will hatch and survive. Baby turtles are easy prey for predators at birth.
Fun Facts about the Lava Heron
The lava heron, also known as the Galapagos heron, is a wading bird endemic to the Galapagos Islands that nests along the lava rocks, coastlines, saltwater lagoons, and mangrove forests. They are a uniform grey color, which acts as camouflage against the grey basalt rocks where they dwell and during breeding season, males’ legs change from grey to a bright orange, and its bill goes from grey to black.
Fun Facts about the White-Tipped Shark
Male white-tipped sharks bite the females to show their interest. These “love bites” are commonly found near the females’ neck and head.
White tip reef sharks can grow up to 6.5 feet long. They are curious and gentle and often approach swimmers quite close.
Fun Facts about the Eagle Rays
The spotted eagle ray is one of the largest eagle rays with a wing span that can stretch over 9 feet.
They have a keen sense of smell – sniffing out prey hidden in the sand and using their large snouts to dig them out. Their flat crushing teeth can easily crunch through the shells of crabs, oysters, and sea urchins.
Fun Facts about the Great Blue Heron
The most solitary and mysterious bird of the Galapagos measures about 4.5 feet tall and weighs about 5.5 lbs., making it one of the largest herons on the islands. Lifespan is approximately 15 years.
Fun Facts about the Marine Iguana
The marine iguana is an extraordinary animal that lives on land but feeds in the sea, grazing on various seaweeds. The short, blunt nose is well-adapted to feeding on algae growing on rocks, and the flattened tail is perfect for swimming, propelling the iguana through the water while its legs hang useless at its sides.
While they feed mainly on algae, they have also been known to consume crustaceans and grasshoppers.
Iguanas rid themselves of excess salt, consumed along with the algae, by a special gland connected to their nostrils.
Fun Facts about Land Iguanas
Land iguanas are huge – averaging more than 3 feet in length, with males weighing up to 30 pounds.
They live in the drier areas of the Islands, and in the mornings, they can be found sprawled beneath the hot equatorial sun. To escape the heat, they seek the shade of cacti, rocks, or trees. At night, they sleep in burrows dug in the ground to conserve their body heat. They feed mainly on low-growing plants and shrubs, as well as fallen fruits and cactus pads, which provide the moisture they require during long, dry periods.
Land iguanas enjoy a fascinating symbiotic relationship with Darwin’s finches, allowing the little birds to land on them and remove ticks.
This barrel is the “post office” of Post Office Bay. Here, visitors can leave postcards to be mailed or hand-delivered and take postcards to deliver or mail. I took a handful of ones for people residing in the New York area and one which I mailed to folks in Australia. I included my name and email address – and guess what? I got an email back stating they had received it and how nice it was of me to mail it to them. Cool idea…
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